Gazing up at the unique round architecture of Hwajungdong Catholic Church, have you ever wondered about its story? Here in Hapjeong-dong, Seoul, Hwajungdong Catholic Church stands as a solemn reminder of a turbulent past. This sanctuary, overlooking the Han River, isn’t just a place of worship. It’s a testament to the unwavering faith of Korean Catholics during the Joseon Dynasty. Hwajungdong Catholic Church sits on Jeoldusan Hill, a place once known as Yanghwajin, a scenic spot cherished for its beauty. However, in 1866, during the Byeongin Persecution, this serene location transformed into an execution ground. Countless Catholics were martyred here, their blood staining the very ground we stand on. The persecution stemmed from political anxieties and misunderstandings surrounding the arrival of a French fleet. The Joseon Kingdom, fearing Russia’s southward expansion, sought alliances with France and England. When French missionaries failed to appear for a meeting with the regent, Heungseon Daewongun, he lashed out against the Catholic community. Driven by fear and suspicion, he ordered the execution of believers, falsely accusing them of collaborating with foreign invaders. The church we see today, built in 1967, commemorates the centenary of this tragic event. Its distinctive circular roof, supported by pillars resembling those of Korean palaces, is a unique architectural marvel. This design, a masterpiece by architect Lee Hee-tae, even won an international prize. Beneath the church lies a museum, preserving artifacts from the persecution. Here, you can see execution instruments, some still bearing the chilling stains of their grim purpose. Personal belongings of the martyrs, like Matteo Ricci’s “De Deo Verax Disputatio” and Father Thomas Yang-eop Choe’s journals, offer glimpses into their faith and resilience. Among those remembered is Peter Soon-jip Park, whose testimony helped identify many of the unidentified martyrs. His family tragically suffered sixteen martyrdoms, while he dedicated himself to burying the bodies of the fallen. In 1984, Pope John Paul II visited Hwajungdong Catholic Church, canonizing 103 Korean martyrs. This poignant act solidified the church’s significance as a symbol of unwavering faith amid persecution. As you leave Hwajungdong Catholic Church, remember the sacrifices made on this hallowed ground. Their enduring legacy continues to inspire hope and faith, reminding us of the strength of the human spirit.
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