“A middle-aged Japanese man in a beautifully embroidered kimono opened the door” This is how Park Gerdine recalled his arrival at the Chosen Savings Bank executive residence in Jeong-dong in 1945. This unassuming building is now a part of Jeong-dong’s fascinating story.
Jeong-dong in Seoul is more than just a neighborhood behind Deoksu Palace. It’s a living testament to a pivotal period in Korean history. It was once Seoul’s foreign neighborhood a hub of Western influence during the late Joseon Dynasty.
In the 1880s Joseon opened its ports. Western powers established legations in Jeong-dong. The Americans unknowingly bought a haunted house. Locals avoided it due to a previous murder during a military uprising. Other legations soon followed. Schools and churches were built. Baejae Hakdang opened in 1885. Ewha Hakdang a girls’ school opened the next year. These schools taught a Western curriculum including English. Chungdong First Methodist Church was constructed in 1897. Seoul Foreign School followed in 1912.
King Gojong found refuge in the Russian Legation in 1896. This was after the assassination of Queen Min orchestrated by Japan. He then expanded Gyeongun Palace which is now Deoksu Palace. He chose this location for its proximity to Western legations hoping for protection from Japan. This strategy ultimately failed. Japan defeated Russia in 1905. The Eulsa Treaty effectively ended the Korean kings’ power. This treaty was signed at Jungmyeongjeong a building next to the American ambassador’s residence. This building has been restored and is now a museum.
Jeong-dong boasts many architectural gems. The Anglican Cathedral is arguably Seoul’s most beautiful church. It remained unfinished due to funding issues and the loss of its original blueprints. These blueprints were rediscovered in England in the 1990s. The cathedral houses the tomb of Anglican Bishop Mark Trollope. Photos of church leaders killed during the Korean War hang on a cathedral wall. Father Charles Hunt a Royal Asiatic Society Korea president died during the brutal winter death march of 1950.
Even the sidewalk outside Deoksu Palace held a legend. Couples who walked its length were said to break up. This was likely due to the family court located at the path’s end. This courthouse is now the Seoul Museum of Art.
The recently restored Chosen Savings Bank executive residence adds another layer to Jeong-dong’s story. It served as a secondary U.S. Embassy residence after 1945. Park Gerdine’s story illustrates its unique acquisition. His Korean friend secured the residence from the bank president. The encounter showcased a complex mix of cultures and power dynamics.
These are just glimpses into Jeong-dong’s rich past. Every building every street corner whispers stories of intrigue diplomacy and resilience. Jeong-dong invites you to delve deeper into Seoul’s multifaceted history.