Whispers of history echo through these walls. Welcome to Saemoonan Church. This isn’t just any church. It’s the first organized Presbyterian church in South Korea. Founded in 1887 by Horace Grant Underwood an American missionary. Saemoonan Church stands as the oldest established church in the entire country.
Underwood a remarkable man wasn’t content with just building a church. He also established Underwood School now Kyungsin High School and Middle School. He founded Yonhi College the precursor to Yonsei University. He even played a key role in the founding of Severance Hospital. Saemoonan Church truly became the Mother Church of Korean Protestantism.
Imagine the scene in September 1887. Underwood baptized one person. He appointed two elders. Fourteen Koreans formed the initial congregation. A small start for such a significant institution. Over time Saemoonan Church grew. It outgrew six different chapels. The most recent chapel was constructed between 2014 and 2019.
This magnificent sixth chapel is a marvel of modern religious architecture. Architect Lee Eunseok designed it. Its design is unconventional. It resembles a mother’s arms spread wide. It offers extensive community space. The church significantly altered Lee’s original design. Ironically the unique exterior facade remains. This unique design led to international acclaim.
The sixth chapel has garnered prestigious architectural awards. In 2019 it won the Cultural Architecture category of the Architecture Master Prize. In 2020 it was a finalist for the Building of the Year in ArchDaily. It also received the Jury Award in the Religious Architecture and Memorials category of the Architizer A+ Awards. In 2021 its curved surface graced the cover of Phaidon’s The World’s Best Architecture.
However Saemoonan Church’s history isn’t without its controversies. The appointment of the current senior pastor Rev Lee Sang-hak caused a stir. He accepted the position without prior notice to his previous congregation. This lack of communication led to internal conflict.
Furthermore Rev Lee’s doctoral dissertation also sparked controversy. His work focused on sin and salvation through the lens of Korean han. He suggested a shift from a punitive to a more healing-centered approach. His interpretation of Jesus’ birth also caused a debate. Saemoonan Church requested an investigation.
Despite these controversies Saemoonan Church remains a significant landmark. It’s a place of worship. It’s a testament to the enduring power of faith. It’s a living symbol of Korean Protestantism’s history. Saemoonan Church is a vital part of Seoul’s cultural heritage. Its story a blend of triumph and tribulation. Remember Saemoonan Church as you continue your journey through Seoul.