“Teacher of Great Realisation”. Does that title pique your interest? It should because it has a lot to do with Kenchō-ji Temple.
Welcome to Kenchō-ji, the oldest Zen training monastery in Japan. It holds the highest rank in Kamakura’s Five-Mountain system. Completed in 1253, Kenchō-ji stands as a hallmark of Kamakura’s cultural legacy.
Kenchō-ji’s story begins with Rankei Doryu. He was a Chinese Zen master who spread Zen in Japan. Doryu was given a memorial title by Emperor Gouda. That title was “Teacher of Great Realisation”.
The temple’s layout follows the Chinese Ch’an tradition. Buildings align on an axis. The garden sits behind the Hōjō, where the head priest resides.
Musō Soseki designed the garden. He was a Zen priest, poet and garden designer. The garden is a typical Zen garden. It uses few plants. The pond resembles the character 心, which means mind or heart. It is important in Zen Buddhism.
Kenchō-ji had a full shichidō garan and 49 subtemples. Fires in the 14th and 15th centuries destroyed most of them. The complex still has ten subtemples.
The Sōmon is the outer gate. It came from the Hanju Zanmai-in temple in Kyoto. The Sanmon is the Main Gate. People built it in 1754 with donations from the Kantō region. A raccoon dog helped raise money. He transformed himself into a monk. He wanted to repay the priests’ kindness. People call the Sanmon the Tanuki-mon, or raccoon dog gate.
The Bonshō is the Temple Bell. It was cast in 1255 and is a National Treasure. The Butsuden is the Buddha Hall. It came from Zōjō-ji in Tokyo in 1647. The Hattō is the Dharma Hall. Public ceremonies take place there. It is the largest Buddhist wooden structure in eastern Japan. The Karamon is the Grand Gate. It also came from Zōjō-ji.
The Hōjō is the head priest’s living quarters. It also came from the Hanju Zanmai-in in Kyoto. Monks train in meditation in the Monastery. It is closed to the public. The Shin-ji Ike is the Zen garden. It is shaped like the Chinese character for mind.
Koizumi Junsaku painted a dragon on the Hattō’s ceiling in 2003. People call the Hattō the Ryūō-den, or dragon king hall. Chinese juniper trees stand in front of the Butsuden. They are Natural Treasures. Doryū brought them as saplings from China. A stone monument commemorates Kamakura’s citizens who died in the Russo-Japanese War.
Near the garden’s end stands the Hansōbō. It is the temple’s Shinto shrine. The Hansōbō Daigongen is the enshrined spirit. Aozora Kandō brought it here in 1890. Statues on the stairs represent Tengu. They are goblin-like entities. Some have wings and beaks. They are Karasu-tengu, or crow tengu. On a clear day, you can see Mount Fuji, Sagami Bay and Izu Ōshima from the shrine.
The Sanmon Kajiwara Segaki-e funerary ceremony takes place on July 15. It honors Kajiwara Kagetoki, a samurai who died during political turmoil. A ghostly figure appeared to Doryū. The warrior seemed sad that the segaki was over. The priest repeated the ceremony for him. The man revealed himself as Kajiwara Kagetoki’s ghost.
Kenchō-ji has survived fires and wars. Today, it continues to teach Zen meditation. It welcomes tourists from around the globe. Take your time to explore its rich history and peaceful atmosphere.