“Sick on a journey”. That is the opening line of Matsuo Bashō’s death poem. The great haiku poet died in Osaka on November 28 1694. He had contracted a fever. Today we stand before a memorial to Bashō. It is the Bashō句碑 or Bashō kikuhi.
The exact spot of his death was near here. It was not far from a Shinmachi apartment. A paper Osaka city map marked it as “place of Bashō’s end”. But the spot was a giant noisy construction site. It was next to the Namba Betsuin Buddhist Temple.
Bashō’s final poem is inscribed on a stone in a Zen temple garden. He was too ill to brush the poem himself. The spot under construction seemed to be a flower shop site. He died in a rented room on its second floor.
His death poem reads:
Sick on a journey
in my dream staggering
over withered fields.
Bashō’s legacy continues to inspire poets and travelers. The Bashō句碑 serves as a reminder of his impact. It marks his final days in Osaka. This monument almost appears human. Japanese believe rocks are inhabited by kami. Maybe Bashō himself is in there.
Bashō visited Osaka in 1688. This was during his journey called “Mino no Kuni Kikigaki”. He visited local places. He wrote a haiku about persimmon.
柿つばた
語るも旅のひとつ哉
Kaki tsubata
Kataru mo tabi no hitotsu kana
This translates to:
The iris and the persimmon
Telling about them
Is also part of the journey
The Bashō句碑 stands in the grounds of Ryozenji Temple. It commemorates Bashō’s haiku. The haiku refers to the iris. The temple is known for its beautiful irises.
The stone was erected in 1814. Osaka haiku poets of the Tsukiyoza group built it. Mitsuwa Jin was their leader.
During the tour we also visit other Bashō monuments. You can find Bashō monuments at different places. These monuments are of great historical value. Efforts are made to preserve them.
Another Bashō monument is located at Gojo Shrine. It was built by Osaka haiku poets. The inscription is based on a painting. It depicts Morikawa Kyoriku and Yosa Buson.
At Osaka Tenmangu Shrine is another Bashō monument. It features a haiku about plum blossoms. It was erected in 1860.
The haiku may not even be by Bashō. The Bashō monument here features a plum tree. It was erected in 1893. This was for the 200th anniversary of Bashō’s death.
These monuments show Bashō’s lasting impact on Japanese culture. The Bashō句碑 is a fitting tribute. It celebrates his life and work.