“An Edo period cat flap?” A curious thought isn’t it? Here we are at Zenkain Temple, known locally as \u79c0\u5178\u5bfa. This temple offers more than meets the eye. It is an Edo period temple with wonderful architecture.
\u79c0\u5178\u5bfa is a serene escape from the city bustle. We almost missed it. Its gate doubles as a bell tower. The temple’s best feature made us stop. Only then we realized it was a temple. A pleasant surprise indeed.
Passing through the bell tower gate we enter a small walled garden. Opposite the gate lies a small open shrine area. Instead of the usual figure, a simple screen and flower arrangement greet us. It is unexpectedly refreshing.
The garden’s designer is a mystery. Judith Clancy suggests it might be Kobori Enshu. But this claim remains vague. Could it be just another temple creation myth? Kobori Enshu was an Edo period garden designer and tea master. He designed castles like Kyoto’s Nijo Castle. Perhaps a smaller garden offered him a change of pace.
To the right of the entrance stand several statues. They date back to the Kamakura period. These weathered figures are Amida Nyorai, Kannon and Jizo. Exposed to the elements, they have stood here since the 12th century. A little rain is nothing to them.
Another temple is nearby. Manshu-in’s Shinto cousin sits opposite the larger Manshu-in. It is a mystery shrine. There was no information available. The two shrine buildings honor different gods. One is dedicated to Benzaiten. She is the only female of Japan’s seven lucky gods. She is the goddess of knowledge art and beauty. Next to her is a structure dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane. He was a Heian period scholar. He is now revered as the god of learning. The shrine’s name Tenmangu reflects this. Together they create a shrine perfect for students.
We continue onward, following the path. Our next stop is Saginomori Shrine. It is a Shinto shrine. This shrine was established in the 9th century. It moved to its current location in the 17th century. Saginomori Shrine is known for its plum blossoms. Perhaps we will return when they bloom.
Our walk offers more than temples. Mountains dusted with snow create a beautiful sight. They look like they’re covered in icing sugar. Scarecrows stand guard in the fields. Small Jizo statues watch over travelers. The journey itself is rewarding. Keep your eyes open. Even discarded objects tell a story.