Isn’t it remarkable how some statues in Kyoto have captivating stories? This is particularly true of the \u6e67\u77e5 Sculpture. Some of Kyoto’s residents aren’t really much for conversation. That doesn’t mean they haven’t got a story to tell.
Today, we’re exploring some interesting statues and figures you might pass. They are on your journey through the old capital. Let’s talk about a few of them.
Close to Gion-Shijō Station, you’ll find a figure. It’s near where the Shijō Bridge crosses the Kamogawa River. Many mistake it for a young samurai, swaggering after victory. Sword slung casually over the shoulder, the figure cuts quite a dash.
But this isn’t a samurai at all. This is Izumo no Okuni. She invented kabuki, a popular Japanese theatre form. Once a shrine maiden at Izumo Shrine, she came to Kyoto. She sought funds for her shrine.
On a dry riverbed, she gathered female outcasts. Around 1603, she formed the first kabuki troupe. Reactions varied. Some found the troupe colourful and exciting. Others thought it loud and cacophonous. But Okuni found patronage. She developed kabuki until retiring in 1610. Then, she disappeared from public life.
At the west end of Sanjō Bridge, two “characters” hide by a weeping cherry tree. These are often the first friendly faces for visitors. They visit the nightlife areas of Pontochō and Kiyamachi. Sunday morning often finds them with empty bottles. Cigarettes hang from their lips. But Kyoto’s law-abiding residents prevent any harm to them.
These figures are Yaji and Kita. They are the leads in the 1927 silent film “Yaji and Kita: Yasuda’s Rescue”. This comedy spawned two sequels. Denjiro Okochi played Kita. Goro Kawabe played Yaji. Sadly, only a 15-minute fragment of the original survives. Only the third instalment is fully preserved.
While exploring Gion, spot the Issen Yoshoku restaurant. You’ll see an interesting mascot outside. This kid is having a bad day. He carries a delivery. He tries to escape a small dog chasing him. The puppy grips the boy’s shorts. It is pulling them down. This slapstick serves as a mascot. The restaurant only serves one dish. It is called “one cent Western food.” This dish is like okonomiyaki. It was one of Japan’s first Western-style dishes. The pose might remind you of an old American sunscreen logo.
Near Sanjō Station stands a large statue. People call him “the dogeza statue.” Dogeza is a deep kneeling bow. It is only used for serious apologies. At first glance, it looks like that. But this fellow bows to the Kyoto Imperial Palace.
Takayama Hikokuro lived from 1747 to 1793. He was a samurai of the Edo period. His travels are in his travel diaries. This statue shows his loyalty to the emperor. He arrived in Kyoto. He saw the dilapidated Imperial Palace. Then he bowed deeply to it. He advocated for the restoration of imperial rule. This earned him respect. The imperialist faction restored the Emperor to power. They erected this statue in 1868.
Ryōma Sakamoto lived from 1836 to 1867. He was from Kōchi prefecture. He played a large part in the Bakumatsu period. He was against the shogun-led bakufu government. He admired Westernization. He wanted to modernize the military. He helped unify pro-Imperial domains. He stood against the bakufu.
He survived several assassination attempts in Kyoto. Sadly, he died before seeing his dream realized. Ryōma was killed at the Ōmiya Inn. His comrade Nakaoka Shintaro was with him. Assassins likely aligned with the Tokugawa shogunate killed them. Someone was sentenced. But the killers’ true identity remains unknown. His contributions to politics and the military have cemented his place. He is one of Kyoto’s favourite adopted sons.
Benkei is big. Minamoto no Yoshitsune is nimble. They are a famous pair in Japanese history. Yoshitsune was called Ushiwakamaru. He learned swordsmanship from the king of the tengu on Mt. Kurama. Later, he teamed up with his brothers. They avenged their father’s death.
Benkei had adventures. Seeking opponents, he posted himself at Gojō Bridge. He challenged every swordsman. He disarmed them. He had 999 swords. Then Yoshitsune turned up. Defeated by the youth, Benkei became Yoshitsune’s loyal retainer. He fought alongside him until their deaths at the Siege of Koromogawa. This statue shows their meeting. It is charmingly placed at Gojō Bridge.
Murasaki Shikibu was a Heian period lady. She is credited with writing the world’s first novel. She lived from about 973 to 1031. She was a novelist, poet and lady-in-waiting. Her real name may have been Fujiwara no Takako. Her novel is The Tale of Genji. It details Prince Genji’s life and loves. The second half takes place in Uji. In honour of this connection, you can find her beneath a lone pine. She is alongside the Uji Bridge.