法照寺

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“Feeling lucky?” That’s the unspoken question hanging in the air as we approach Hozenji Temple. This discreet temple preserves a slice of old Japan amid Osaka’s chaotic Dotonbori shopping area.

Founded in 1637 Hozenji Temple pays homage to Fudo Myoo. He is one of the five guardians of Buddhism. Back in the 1600s, this whole area was an entertainment hub. Kabuki and bunraku performances thrived. Hozenji even hosted storytelling and stage plays.

Now look at the statue of Fudo Myoo. Locals affectionately call him Mizukake Fudo. Tradition says you should splash water on the statue. It is said to bring good luck. Notice anything unusual? The statue is covered in moss. This green blanket is from countless visitors pouring water on it. Originally, only those without offerings did this. But it became a common practice.

Fudo Myoo typically holds a sword. This represents wisdom cutting through ignorance. He also has a rope. Accompanying him are often two smaller statues. They are his attendants Kongara and Seitaka.

Hozenji Yokocho surrounds the temple. It is a narrow alley filled with shops and restaurants. They evoke Osaka of centuries past. Try teppanyaki or modanyaki. It is a variation of okonomiyaki.

In 1945 bombings destroyed everything except the Fudo Myoo statue. Afterward the temple and alleys were rebuilt. They retained the spirit of Naniwa old Osaka. The temple glows warmly at night. Lanterns cast an orange shade across the temple grounds. It provides a momentary escape from the city’s noise. Hozenji Temple offers quiet reflection. It reveals another facet of this metropolis. Take a moment here. Experience a bit of old Osaka before we move on.

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