Is it just me or does this \u685c\u8857\u9053 Stele seem to whisper tales of ancient roads? Today we’re standing before the \u685c\u8857\u9053 Stele a silent marker of Kyoto’s historical Sasayama Kaido. In ages past roads like this were vital arteries. They connected Japanese cities and regions. The Sasayama Kaido was one of these key paths. It ran through the mountains west of Kyoto City. This started in the Heian Period from the 8th to 12th centuries.
For centuries a variety of travelers walked here. Merchants carried goods in carts. Pilgrims visited temples on foot. Samurai traveled on war horses. The Sasayama Kaido linked Kyoto to the northern coast. That is today’s prefectures of Tottori and Shimane. It was a 60 kilometer detour of a larger highway.
The road gained prominence. It passed through key locations. It funneled travelers in and out of Kyoto. Kyoto was politically and economically important. The eastern point of the Sasayama Kaido lies in Kameoka. Kameoka is a rural community. It is just over the mountains from Kyoto City. This region was long considered the doorway to Kyoto. Today it is acclaimed for its agricultural output.
You could start your own Sasayama Kaido adventure in Kameoka. In the feudal era the town was home to a castle. It was ruled by the samurai Mitsuhide Akechi. The stone walls can still be seen today. The Sasayama Kaido is now paved. You can walk it like travelers in centuries past. Bus stops are located along the road.
The first stop westward is Anao-ji Temple. It was founded in 705. The temple has a long history. It was part of a pilgrimage circuit. This focused on the Buddhist deity of mercy. The main hall houses a statue of a reclining Buddha. It is said to have healing powers. Touch the corresponding area of the statue if you have pain.
As you journey deeper you might hear a hammer. This is the Masahiro Japanese Sword Forge. It is run by Yuya Nakanishi. He is one of the few remaining traditional sword makers in Kyoto. Visitors can see how he creates his masterpieces by appointment.
Further along the Sasayama Kaido lies a long valley. This is known for religious locations and hiking trails. Miyagawa Shrine is a site of Shinto worship. Its history reaches back to the 8th century. The shrine draws upon the natural setting. It creates an otherworldly atmosphere. The shrine is surrounded by forest and moss-covered boulders.
At the end of the valley lies Habu. It was once a thriving post town. The town had its own castle. Only foundation stones remain. Nearby Fusai-ji Temple is a hidden gem. It is a Buddhist retreat in a quiet forest. The grounds have a strong Zen feeling.
Just off the road toward Habu are the Okita and Nemuta Jizo statues. These stone carvings are Buddhist guardians of travelers. Travelers would stop to ask the stones for a solid night’s sleep. Little remains of the medieval Habu post town. Hirata liquor store is a traditional countryside house. It is a perfect spot to pick up a souvenir. Le Jardin Pop serves French cuisine in a restored traditional home.
A side road off the highway after Habu grants access to Rurikei Valley. This is a four kilometer long river ravine. It is home to breathtaking scenery. Back on the Sasayama Kaido lies the hamlet of Amabiki. It is on the eastern side of the mountain pass. Yakushido is a tiny Buddhist temple in the middle of rice fields. Amabiki Hachimangu Shrine has the holy Amabiki Muku tree.
Amabiki is the end of the Kyoto section of the Sasayama Kaido. The Kyoto stretch provides ample opportunities for adventure. So remember the \u685c\u8857\u9053 Stele. It is a gateway to a journey through time and nature.