Perhaps it started with a whisper a legend of demons and redemption. We’re standing before Jikoji Temple also known as Kaji-no-Taki. This ancient temple has a history stretching back over 1300 years. It’s a place where the veil between worlds feels thin.
Jikoji Temple connects to Engyoja. You can use a shuttle from Hiraoka Station during the spring and autumn door ceremonies. Imagine this path long ago. It ran from Nara through Kawachi to Namba which is now Osaka.
The Dark Pass was a dangerous place. A demon couple lived here. They attacked travelers. They devoured those who dared cross the pass. En no Gyoja saw their evil deeds. He preached Buddhism to them. They converted to the faith. En no Gyoja cut off his hair. He built a temple here. That’s how Jikoji Temple or Kaji-no-Taki came to be.
Even poets like Matsuo Basho visited Kakikiri-no-Sato. They sought the sound of the Japanese squirrel.
The temple grounds are beautiful. Osaka Prefecture recognizes them as a place of scenic beauty. Autumn is special. Maple trees over 200 years old decorate the grounds.
During the spring door-opening in March and autumn door-closing ceremonies in September something unique happens. Two people dress as blue and red demons. An ascetic monk walks with them. They run up the stone steps. It is quite a sight.
Jikoji Temple is open until 5 PM. There are no holidays and no admission fee. You can walk about 40 minutes from Hiraoka Station or Nukata Station on the Kintetsu Nara Line to get to Jikoji Temple. A taxi ride from Ikoma Station takes about 20 minutes. The address is 1823 Higashitoyoura-cho Higashiosaka-shi Osaka.
Remember the story of demons transformed by faith as you leave. Jikoji Temple stands as a testament to the power of redemption. It also shows the enduring beauty found even in the darkest of legends.