弘信庵

Deep within each of us, unseen forces whisper. These forces, according to ancient Taoist beliefs, manifest as three worms: the sanshinomushi. Here, at Shitennoji Koshindo in Osaka, those whispers become a tangible part of a vibrant, age-old tradition. Shitennoji Koshindo isn’t just a place of worship. It’s a portal to a time when beliefs shaped daily life in ways we can scarcely imagine. This small temple, affiliated with the famed Shitennoji Temple, is dedicated to quelling these mischievous worms. Legend says these worms reside in our stomachs, escaping on “koshin days” to report our sins to the heavens. Imagine the anxiety of ancient Japanese, aware of these tiny spies lurking within. Koshin days, calculated using the Jikkan Jyunishi calendar system, became nights of anxious wakefulness, known as koshin machi. Shitennoji Koshindo, once one of Japan’s three most prominent Koshin-do temples, offers a glimpse into this fascinating practice. Here, the blue-faced Kongo-doji, the temple’s principal image, stands as a guardian against the worms’ tattling tongues. Originally, Shomen Kongo, the deity enshrined here, was invoked to ward off illness. Over time, however, his role evolved. He became the protector against the sanshinomushi, solidifying the temple’s connection to the koshin tradition. The temple grounds, though marked by the destruction of WWII, still resonate with this unique history. The current main temple building, surprisingly, once served as a rest area during the 1970 World Expo. Look around and you’ll notice monkeys. These are the apostles of Shomen-Kongo, their images scattered throughout the temple grounds. During the Koshin Mairi festivals, held the day before and on koshin days, a unique ritual unfolds: saru kaji. Picture this: a person with a large wooden monkey on their back, while a temple member chants, keeping the sanshinomushi at bay. Notice the konyaku stand. Tradition holds that these mischievous worms despise konyaku. Eating it in silence, facing north towards the main hall, is a customary practice during the festival. Shitennoji Koshindo provides a rare opportunity to connect with a fading tradition. It’s a living testament to a time when fear of tiny worms led to communal gatherings, rituals, and a unique blend of anxiety and celebration.