崇徳天皇御廟

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“The Gion corner is nearby.”A geisha hurries past us, her voice a hushed whisper. Do you see her vanishing grace? That fleeting beauty? It’s a reminder of the ephemeral nature of life, a theme deeply intertwined with the story of Emperor Sutoku, whose mausoleum, the Sutoku Tennou Gobyo, stands here. Tucked away amidst the vibrant Gion district, this unassuming shrine holds a poignant tale of love, loss, and restless spirits. Emperor Sutoku, the 75th emperor, met a tragic end. Caught in the throes of the Hogen Rebellion in 1156, he was exiled to a distant province. His beloved Lady Awa no Naishi, heartbroken, followed him into exile but later returned to Kyoto. She built a hermitage here, on this very spot, to pray for his soul. Legend has it, she even copied sutras and offered them as a testament to her devotion. The emperor, however, wouldn’t find peace even in death. His spirit, wracked by anger and sorrow, is said to have haunted the capital, causing storms and illness. That’s why the Shiramine Shrine was established. It was meant to appease his restless spirit. So as you stand here, before the Sutoku Tennou Gobyo, remember the emperor’s tragic tale. It’s a story etched not just in stone, but in the very soul of Kyoto.

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