How many temples can claim lineage to an emperor’s former villa? Myoshin-ji in Kyoto boasts such a distinction. We are about to explore a Zen sanctuary. Myoshin-ji stands as the head temple of the Myoshin-ji school of Rinzai Zen Buddhism. It holds within its walls over 3000 affiliated temples. It proudly proclaims itself the largest of all Zen temples.
Founded in 1337 the temple’s story began when an abdicated emperor transformed his imperial villa into a Zen space. Emperor Hanazono who abdicated in 1318 became a monk in 1335. He then donated his palace to found Myoshin-ji. The temple’s grounds once served as the emperor’s palace.
As we wander these paths consider the historical weight. Myoshin-ji faced destruction during the Onin War in 1467. Yet it was rebuilt. The main buildings stand near the southern gate close to Hanazono Station.
Look closely at the Sanmon Gate and Butsuden Hall. These are important cultural properties. Admire them from the outside only. Then prepare to step inside the Hatto Hall. For a small fee you can enter. Here a giant dragon painting sprawls across the ceiling. Depending on your viewing angle the dragon shifts. Also on display is one of Japan’s oldest temple bells. It dates back to the 7th century.
Myoshin-ji is more than its main halls. Roughly 50 subtemples dot the complex. Most remain closed to the public. However wandering the paths offers a glimpse into the temple’s atmosphere. Some closed temples even leave their front gates open. This allows a peek at their inner gardens.
Taizoin Temple stands out among the subtemples. It boasts a pond garden built in the mid-1960s. Many consider it among the best gardens of the Showa Period. The rock garden was designed in the 1400s by the painter Kano Motonobu.
Keishunin Temple offers gardens to wander through. It also has an attractive tea room. Relax and take in the scenery here. Daishinin Temple is smaller but it has a rock garden with peonies.
Today nearby Ryoanji Temple is detached from Myoshin-ji. Yet it began as one of Myoshin-ji’s subtemples. The complex stretches about 550 meters from north to south. It spans about 400 meters from east to west. The buildings form a kind of temple town. The temple bell bears an inscription from the year 698. That makes it the oldest known Buddhist bell in Japan. It also makes it the oldest bell still in use in the world.
Myoshin-ji offers a unique glimpse into Zen Buddhism. Its vastness and history create a peaceful yet awe-inspiring experience. As we leave remember the emperors monks and artists. They shaped this special sanctuary.