天寧寺

The air hung heavy with the scent of incense as we stand before the unassuming wooden gates of Tenneiji Temple. Don’t let the simplicity fool you. Tenneiji Temple holds within its walls tales of resilience, artistry, and a touch of stubborn dedication. Founded in 1365 by the revered Zen master Guchu Shukyu, Tenneiji Temple has witnessed the passage of centuries, enduring both the ravages of time and the devastation of fire. Tragically, flames swept through the temple grounds not once, but twice, leaving only fragments of its past glory standing. Yet, from the ashes, like a phoenix, Tenneiji Temple rose again. Today, two remarkable structures remain as testaments to the temple’s enduring spirit. Step closer, and take in the Kaisando Hall. This unique hexagonal structure, with its pristine white plaster walls, houses the spirits of the temple’s founders. But it is within the Yakushido Hall that a true marvel awaits. Look up and prepare to be amazed by the immense dragon painted across the ceiling. This masterpiece, created by the renowned artist Hara Zaichu, seems to come alive before your very eyes. Legend has it that Zaichu, a demanding artist, refused to paint until he found water pure enough to mix his pigments. When he finally did, the dragon flowed from his brush with breathtaking speed and life. This magnificent dragon, a symbol of water and protection against fire, ironically survived the flames that consumed much of the temple. As you gaze upon this enduring symbol of Tenneiji Temple, remember the words of Shikkyu Keiryo, Guchu Shukyu’s own teacher, “In all of China, there is not one who understands my teachings, but only Guchu who came from Japan.” Let those words echo the enduring spirit of Tenneiji Temple, a place where resilience and artistry intertwine.