Did the scent of sandalwood ever mingle with whispers of political intrigue? At the Dazhongsi (Fourth Site) in Beijing’s Badachu (Eight Great Sites) park, history suggests it did. Dazhongsi, nestled among the hills, began its life in the Liao Dynasty (around 1033) as the Yinsuan Temple. It was a place of quiet contemplation, a world away from the bustling city. But change, like the seasons, swept through Dazhongsi. In the Ming Dynasty (1550), the Dazhong Hall was added, where the Guanshiyin Bodhisattva was enshrined. This marked the temple’s growing importance. The Ming emperor Jiajing himself left a written account of Yinsuan Temple (later Dazhongsi). He described the temple’s serene location west of the city, the rounded landscape, and the trees and springs that graced the area. Later, during the Qing Dynasty, Emperor Kangxi renamed the temple Dazhongsi. He also gifted a poem and an inscription to the resident monk, continuing the tradition of imperial patronage. Kangxi’s grandson, Emperor Qianlong, also favored Dazhongsi. He visited often, gifting poems and even leaving an inscription “Commemorating the Construction of Dazhongsi” above the mountain gate.
Dazhongsi isn’t just one building, but a complex of halls and pavilions. You enter through the Shanmen Hall, where Qianlong’s inscription is prominently displayed. Inside, you would have once found statues of the Four Heavenly Kings and Weituo, the guardian deity. Behind the Shanmen Hall is the Daxiongbao Hall. Here, a triad of Buddhas resides, flanked by eighteen Arhats sculpted by the Yuan Dynasty artist Liu Yuan. These figures, cast from fragrant sandalwood and fine sand, are said to still exude a subtle aroma. The Hall of Guanshiyin (formerly Yuantongbao Hall), completed in 1550, houses a statue of the compassionate bodhisattva. Twin ancient gingko trees, planted in the Yuan Dynasty, stand sentinel outside.
The highest point of Dazhongsi is the Yaoshi Hall. This hall, rebuilt in 2009, is dedicated to the Medicine Buddha. The hall houses the Medicine Buddha, flanked by the Sun and Moon Bodhisattvas. Twelve Yaksha generals line the sides, each representing a different animal of the Chinese zodiac and a time of day. Dazhongsi also boasts several pagodas scattered throughout the grounds, two prominently perched on the hill behind the temple.
In 2010, after extensive renovations, Dazhongsi was officially reopened as an active place of Buddhist worship. This marked a return to its spiritual roots, after years of serving primarily as a historical site. It is now under the stewardship of the Beijing Shijingshan District Buddhist Association, adding another chapter to its long and storied history. This quiet temple, echoing with centuries of history, offers a glimpse into the enduring power of faith and the ebb and flow of time. At Dazhongsi, the whispers of emperors mingle with the chants of monks, a testament to the enduring connection between the spiritual and the temporal.