善長寺

Gazing upon Hozenji Temple, can you sense the echoes of chanting monks? Their voices once filled this air, performing sennichi nenbutsu, prayers for 1,000 days. Hozenji, a Buddhist temple of the Jodo-shu sect, stands as a testament to resilience and faith. Originally located in Uji, Kyoto, it was relocated to its current site in Osaka’s bustling Dotonbori district in 1637. This area, once an execution ground and cemetery, imbued Hozenji with a unique spiritual significance. The monks dedicated their chants to the repose of the departed. This devotion earned Hozenji the nickname Sennichi-ji, and the street in front of it, Sennichimae-dori, still carries that name today. Hozenji Temple, however, is most recognizable for its moss-covered statue of Fudo Myo-o, the Immovable Lord of Light. This wrathful deity, flanked by his acolytes Seitaka-doshi and Kongara-doshi, survived the air raids of World War II that devastated the surrounding area. Today, visitors continue a tradition, likely started after the war, of splashing water onto the statues, transforming Fudo Myo-o and his companions into verdant figures of veneration. It’s said that splashing the acolytes grants love and children, while targeting specific body parts on the statues can heal ailments. Fudo Myo-o himself is believed to fulfill all wishes. Adjacent to Hozenji Temple lies Hozenji Yokocho, a narrow alley with stone pavements and old-fashioned storefronts. This charming alley, rebuilt in 1982, carries its own scars of history, having survived two fires, one of which tragically destroyed 16 establishments in 2002. The alley’s history is intertwined with the world of comedy, thanks to Kanbi Fujiyama, a Shochiku Shin-kigeki star. His legacy lives on through the wooden sign he created for the alley’s entrance, famously missing a stroke in the character “zen”. At the other end of the alley, a sign by rakugo star Harudanji Katsura III offers a more traditional touch. For a deeper dive into the area’s past, explore Ukiyo Roji, a covered alley connecting Hozenji Yokocho to Dotonbori. Here, photos and historical information offer a glimpse into pre-war Osaka and the devastation of the air raids. Don’t miss Meoto Zenzai, a shop dating back to 1883, its name inspiring Sakunosuke Oda’s novella about a couple’s enduring love amidst the backdrop of Hozenji Yokocho. This charming alley offers a blend of history, tradition, and modern entertainment, a must-see in the heart of Osaka.