“Yokan, you are slow.” Imagine Amida Nyorai speaking those words. That echoes through the centuries at Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji. Today we explore this temple commonly known as Eikan-dō.
Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji is a head temple. It belongs to the Seizan branch of Japan’s Jōdo-shū. You will find it in Kyoto, Sakyo-ku. Shinshō, a Kūkai pupil, founded it. The temple is famed for its fall foliage. It was also a center of learning.
Originally, the temple honored the Gochi Nyorai. These are the Five Wisdom Buddhas. In 853, Shinshō bought Fujiwara no Sekio’s mansion. He planned to use it for this purpose. Temple construction was forbidden in Kyoto then. Formal Imperial approval came ten years later. Emperor Seiwa granted it. Zenrin-ji was officially founded.
The temple shifted towards Jōdo-shū later. Yōkan, the seventh head monk, initiated this. He was a devotee of Amida Buddha. In 1072, he established a Yakō-in. This cared for the needy and ill. Yōkan introduced Nenbutsu. This Chinese practice was new to Japan. He encouraged its observance. Zenrin-ji became known as Eikan-dō because of him.
Zenrin-ji features an unusual Amida Buddha statue. It looks over its shoulder. This is called the Mikaeri Amida. Legend says that in 1082, Yōkan was practicing a ritual. He walked around the statue reciting sutras. The Amida statue came to life. It stepped down from its dais. Yōkan stopped surprised. The Buddha looked back at him. It said “Yōkan you are slow”. The statue remains in that position ever since.
Jōhen, the twelfth head monk, was a Hōnen disciple. Hōnen founded Jōdo-shū. Jōhen was the first Zenrin-ji head to formally devote himself to this sect. Shōdō’s successor, Jōon, made the temple devoted to Jōdo-shū. It became a Nembutsu meditation center.
The Zenrin-ji compound sits in Kyoto’s Eastern Mountain. Buildings connect via covered walkways and staircases. They are scattered among different heights.
The Kōrai-mon is the main gate. It is named after the ancient Korean kingdom of Goguryeo. The current structure dates from the late Edo period. The Yakui-mon is the inner gate. Both gates resemble fortress gates. These surrounded the aristocratic mansion before it became a temple.
The Goe-dō or Founder’s Hall honors Hōnen. It was completed in 1912. It is larger than the Amida Hall.
The Amida-dō enshrines the Amida statue. The current structure was built in the early 17th century.
The Tahōtō is the temple’s tower. It offers the best view. The current structure was completed in 1928.
The Hōjō is the Zen Chief Priests’ Chamber. It is in the Zen style. Emperor Go-Kashiwabara ordered its construction.
Zenrin-ji stores many cultural treasures. These include paintings of Buddhist subjects. Kanō Motonobu, Tosa Mitsunobu, and Hasegawa Tōhaku created some of them.
The Amida statue is an Important Cultural Property. It is 77 cm tall. Experts now believe it was carved in the 12th century. This is the late Heian period.
Remember the words “Yokan, you are slow”. They embody Amida’s mercy. Take that sentiment with you as you depart Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji.