Standing before us is the South Gate at the Walled City of Nantou. This gate isn’t just an entrance. It’s a portal to Shenzhen’s past. Nantou Ancient Town marks the beginning of Shenzhen’s urban history. It started way back in the Eastern Jin dynasty in the year 331. Emperor Cheng of Jin divided Nanhai Commandery creating Dongguan Commandery. Its government was right here in Nantou.
Let’s look at this gate a bit closer. The South Gate was built over 600 years ago during the early Ming dynasty. See the four characters on the plaque above the gate? They read “Ling Nan Zhong Zhen”. Jin Wenmo inscribed them. He was a county magistrate in Xin’an County during the Qing dynasty, under the reign of the Kangxi Emperor.
Also, notice the two characters “Ning Nan” in the gateway. They too were inscribed during the Ming dynasty. This city has seen a lot. Nantou served as the administrative center of the coastal Lingnan region for 2,000 years. It was a crucial military town for coastal defense. Moreover, it was a river and sea transportation stronghold and a hub for foreign trade. That’s quite the resume. It is also known as “the first commandery of East Guangdong and the origin of Hong Kong and Macau.”
Now look around at what is known as the barbican of the ancient city. This square was mainly used for defensive purposes. It formed an integral part of the ancient city wall. Imagine soldiers patrolling here ready to defend Nantou. During the Republic of China, things changed. Nearby residents began building houses against the city wall. This weakened its defensive function. Much of the city’s walls disappeared over time. What remains of the Ming dynasty city wall are valuable relics. They require our protection.
It became the headquarters for many battles during the war and was witness to historical changes in Shenzhen, Hong Kong, and Macau. A thousand years onward, and this square is now a tree-lined park. It has a beautiful spot in the garden city of Shenzhen.
There are more than 40 archeological sites and culturally significant buildings in Nantou. These reflect a Cantonese architectural style. Influences of Hakka, Chaoshan, and Nanyang styles from different periods can be seen. Consider the Dongguan Assembly Hall. It was the chamber of commerce for businessmen of the time in Dongguan County. Liang Jin’ao wrote the name in the middle of the hall. He witnessed the bustling scenes of Nantou during the Qing dynasty, in the Tongzhi period.
The Dongguan Assembly Hall runs west to east. It is three rooms wide and two rooms deep. Dongguan businessmen met here. They would discuss business and negotiate prices. You can imagine the bustling events that took place here. In June 1984, the Dongguan Assembly Hall was listed as one of Shenzhen’s key cultural relics. It requires protection by the Shenzhen municipal government.
As “the first commandery of East Guangdong and the origin of Hong Kong and Macau,” Nantou held the Xin’an County Government Office. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Nantou was the home of the county government. Therefore, the Xin’an County Government Office witnessed many major historical events.
After the First Opium War, Hong Kong was removed from Xin’an County. The British and Chinese struggled to set a new boundary. It became the front line of the Chinese national resistance against foreign invasion. It is indeed remarkable how much history is embedded in this place.