北向山不動院

“Why is this temple facing north?” a young boy whispered, tugging at his mother’s sleeve. We stand now before Kitamuki Zanhudoin Temple, known affectionately as Kitamuki no Ofudousan. Its northward orientation sets it apart, a silent sentinel gazing towards the former capital, Heian-kyo. Kitamuki Zanhudoin Temple was founded in 1130 by the Tendai Buddhist sect. Emperor Toba, ailing and seeking a cure, commissioned the renowned monk Enkan to perform prayers for his recovery. The story goes that during these prayers, an image of Fudo Myoo, a wrathful deity, appeared. Emperor Toba, healed and grateful, ordered the construction of Kitamuki Zanhudoin to enshrine this powerful figure. The statue of Fudo Myoo, designated an Important Cultural Property, stands within the main hall, a testament to the temple’s origins. This Fudo Myoo statue faces north, towards Heian-kyo, symbolically protecting the city. This explains the temple’s name “Kitamuki” which translates to “north-facing”. The temple became part of the Kinki 36 Fudo Myoo pilgrimage, a network of temples dedicated to this protective deity. Kitamuki Zanhudoin is the 22nd temple on this sacred circuit. The current main hall, a simple yet elegant wooden structure, isn’t the original. It was relocated here in 1712 from the former residence of Emperor Higashiyama. Inside, you’ll find a hanging bell cast in 1694, bearing an inscription by the renowned calligrapher, Nison-sai Shinno. It’s a remarkable piece of art. Every Saturday, Kitamuki Zanhudoin offers special prayer services. They also hold regular Tera Yoga sessions. This peaceful sanctuary invites you to reflect on the power of faith. It offers a glimpse into the rich history of Kyoto and its spiritual heart.