八角院 Stele

Hidden within the vibrant city of Kyoto, the Hakkakudo Stele stands as a silent witness to centuries of change. It marks the former location of Hakkakudo, an octagonal hall unlike any other. Imagine a structure, not a perfect octagon, but a square with its corners elegantly trimmed. This unique vermilion hall, originally built in the 13th century, has been rebuilt and repaired over time. Its current form dates to the 17th century, thanks to generous donations from nobility and powerful lords. Their support showcases the deep reverence for both Amida Buddha, whose statue resided within the hall, and Hachiman, the deity of Iwashimizu Hachimangu. The Hakkakudo Stele, thus, whispers a tale of intertwined faiths. The hall once belonged to Iwashimizu Hachimangu, a shrine-temple complex that blended Shinto and Buddhist practices. Inside stood a three-meter tall wooden statue of Amida Buddha. This Amida was not just any Buddha; he held a strong connection to Hachiman, the deity still worshipped at the main hall of Iwashimizu Hachimangu. The Meiji government’s decree in 1868, mandating the separation of Shinto and Buddhism, threatened Hakkakudo’s existence. Every Buddhist structure had to be removed from Iwashimizu Hachimangu. Yet, Hakkakudo was saved. A former chief abbot of Shoboji Temple orchestrated its move to this very spot, atop an ancient burial mound, in 1870. The Hakkakudo Stele stands as a testament to his dedication. The statue of Amida, once housed within those octagonal walls, now resides at Shoboji Temple. Though unsigned, its style suggests it might be the work of Kaikei, the celebrated sculptor of the Kamakura period. Now a nationally designated Important Cultural Property, it continues to inspire awe. Hakkakudo and its original location at Iwashimizu Hachimangu became National Historic Sites in 2012. A meticulous restoration, completed in 2019, brought back Hakkakudo’s vibrant colors. Now, imagine the octagonal hall, repainted in the bright hues of centuries past, standing as a beacon of history and faith. This Hakkakudo Stele invites us to remember the rich tapestry of belief that shaped this sacred ground.