Why is that statue covered in moss? Here at \u4f0d\u4f53\u5730\u8535\u5c0a, you will find a unique sight. This is a statue of Fudo Myo-o. The statue is within Hozenji Temple. Hozenji Temple was built in 1637. Fudo Myo-o is one of the Wisdom Kings in Japanese Buddhism.
Fudo Myo-o means “the immovable wisdom king”. He battles evil with faith and compassion. He uses self-control to be free from suffering. People constantly water the statue. Now lush green moss covers it. This moss is vivid and thick. The statue is the only historic structure here to survive World War II bombings.
Hozenji Temple is near Namba Station in Osaka. It is in the Dotonbori district. This temple has a reputation for helping women about to give birth. Actors and artists often visited the temple. It was located in a district with theaters. Shows were regularly performed here in tents.
Pouring water on the statue is a good luck gesture. This is called “Mizukake Fudo”. Before making a wish, splash water on the deity. This differs from other temples. People usually toss coins there.
Hozenji moved to this location in 1637 from Uji Kyoto. Jodo-shu is the most widespread school of Buddhism in Japan. It emphasizes reciting nenbutsu. This is “Namu Amida Butsu”. It translates to “I take refuge in Amida Buddha”. This is the path to rebirth in the Pure Land.
The area used to have execution grounds and cemeteries. Monks chanted for the departed. They performed sennichi nenbutsu. These were prayers for 1000 days. This gave the temple the nickname Sennichi-ji. The avenue in front is still called Sennichimae-dori. This means “street in front of Sennichi”.
The moss-covered statues emerged after World War II. Air raids burned the surrounding area. Only the Fudo Myo-o statue survived. Fudo Myo-o stands tall. He is flanked by two acolytes. Their names are Seitaka-doshi and Kongara-doshi. Fudo Myo-o has a fearsome grimace and a third eye. This helps him guard Buddhism. He holds a demon-slaying sword and a demon-binding rope. He has a halo of raging flames behind him.
Hozenji Yokocho is nearby. These alleys have old-fashioned storefronts and lanterns. This contrasts with the hubbub of Minami. The iconic flagstones are only from 1982. There have been fires here. One was catastrophic in 2002.
The Naka-za Theater used to be north of Hozenji Yokocho. It opened in 1661 as a kabuki theater. It adapted bunraku puppet plays for kabuki. The theater burned multiple times. It was incinerated by air raids in 1945.
The comedy troupe Shochiku Shin-kigeki performed here. Kanbi Fujiyama and Harudanji Katsura III were kings of comedy here. Naka-za closed in 1999. Today Naka-za Kuidaore Bldg stands here.
To the right of the statues is Meoto Zenzai. This shop was founded in 1883. Sakunosuke Oda named his novella after it. Meoto means “husband and wife”. The story tells of a ne’er-do-well and a geisha who loves him. Customers get two small bowls of zenzai. This gives the illusion of having more. “Two together are better than one alone.”
“Tsuki no Hozenji Yokocho” is a popular ballad. It tells of a young chef saying goodbye to his love. Her father runs the restaurant where he works. The song conveys Hozenji Yokocho’s reputation for fine dining.
Many restaurants line the alleys today. There are kappo ryori kushikatsu bars and cafes. You can walk through and see the sights. Throw water on the statues and say a prayer. Buy incense and a candle beforehand. Light them and stand them in the burner. Splash water on the statues. The acolytes answer prayers for love and children. Aiming for body parts brings healing. Fudo Myo-o fulfills all wishes.
The tops of the acolytes’ heads are bare of moss. This is from the force of the water. The moss tradition started after World War II. A local woman initiated it. Fudo Myo-o has remained immovable through fires. Visit on the 28th of each month to witness a goma votive fire ritual. Or visit on Setsubun to witness it.
\u4f0d\u4f53\u5730\u8535\u5c0a is open 24 hours a day. This is befitting of its never-sleeping location. It shows two dramatically contrasting faces of Osaka. The moss-covered statue serves as a reminder of resilience. It also reminds us of the enduring power of faith.