“A fur coat in February? How fitting.”
This is Trezzini Square. Right here before you stands a monument to Domenico Trezzini. He wasn’t just any architect. He was the first chief architect of St Petersburg. He shaped this city’s European look. Think of the elegant buildings. He’s responsible for many of them. For decades after his death in 1734 the city remembered him only vaguely. There wasn’t even a plaque to mark his contribution.
Trezzini’s life was a remarkable journey. Born in Switzerland he worked in Copenhagen before coming to Russia in 1703. Peter the Great lured him with a generous salary. An unimaginable sum for the time. He was also promised freedom to leave should he dislike the Russian climate. That climate wasn’t kind to all of Peter’s architects. Many fell ill or died. Trezzini persevered.
He designed the Peter and Paul Fortress and the magnificent Peter and Paul Cathedral. He also masterminded the Twelve Colleges. A school for architects was founded under his guidance. This school trained talented individuals who later became important architects. One of them was Mikhail Zemtsov. Zemtsov became Trezzini’s assistant and stylistic successor. Trezzini also developed house templates. These were rapidly built to meet housing demands. He contributed significantly to the urban planning. His work transformed the landscape of Kronshtadt and Vasilevskiy Island. The Alexander Nevsky Monastery owes its existence to his plans as well.
Trezzini’s monument itself is a fascinating story. Designed by sculptor Pavel Ignatiev it only appeared in 2014. The creation was delayed by a lack of funding. The bronze Trezzini is depicted in a fur coat. This was unusual for monuments. It highlights his Swiss origins. He’s shown with drawings in one hand and leaning on a compass. His head is tilted back. This is said to represent him admiring the cathedral’s bell tower. A remarkable man. A remarkable legacy. The square itself is named in his honor. A fitting tribute to the man who made St Petersburg the beautiful city we see today. This square reminds us every day of his contribution.