“Gowns of black” It feels like I’m joining a secret society. Today we are standing before the Chiesa di Sant’Orsola. It is a Baroque-style Roman Catholic church. The Chiesa di Sant’Orsola is located in the historic center of Palermo.
The church’s history began with the Compagnia di Sant’Orsola. This was a lay confraternity founded in 1564. They first met in the neighboring church. The tag “dei Negri” refers to the black gowns. Members of the confraternity wore them during processions.
The Chiesa di Sant’Orsola opened to the public in 1662. Giacomo Amato designed the nave and maybe the entire building. In 1672, the Chiesa di Sant’Orsola was refurbished. It got rich decorations of stucco and painting. Gaspare Serenari frescoed the nave ceiling. It shows the Glory of St. Ursula. Another refurbishment happened in the following century. Giacomo Serpotta added stucco decorations for some chapels. These include macabre skeletal representations.
Look closely at the facade. Notice the horizontal ribs of natural stone pilasters. They culminate in a massive entablature. This separates the two orders. The portal features three carved skulls. These skulls recall the burial activity. The Compagnia dei Negri carried it out. On the lateral pilasters, you will see a recurring decorative element. It is the “purgative soul”.
Inside the Chiesa di Sant’Orsola, admire the Baroque style. It has a Renaissance facade and a single nave. There are communicating side chapels. The walls are enriched with stuccos. These are by Serpotta and collaborators.
The nave is frescoed with the Glory of Sant’Orsola. Gaspare Serenari created this. The pillars are decorated with ovals. They frame figures of Palermo’s patron saints. These include Lucy, Christina, Agatha, Ninfa, Olivia, and Rosalia. They come from the workshop of Pietro Novelli.
In the right aisle, the Chapel of Saint Anne stands out. It features a painting of Saint Anne and child Mary. This 17th-century canvas is by Pietro Novelli. The Chapel of Saint Ursula displays the Martyrdom of Saint Ursula. Pietro Novelli from Monreale painted it in 1642. The Chapel of the Souls in Purgatory is captivating. It has the painting Salvation of the Souls of Purgatory. Giacomo Serpotta created the stuccos and angels.
In the left aisle, the Chapel of the Holy Family is a highlight. It has a painting of the Holy Family and the Holy Spirit. The Chapel of San Girolamo houses the painting San Girolamo in his study. Gaspare Vazzano painted it.
Behind the high altar is the Deposition and the Three Marys. Giuseppe Patania created this masterpiece. Two large canvases flank it. They depict The Pool of Bethesda and The Descent of Christ into Limbo. Antonio Manno painted them. Gaspare Serenari frescoed the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in the vault.
The Chiesa di Sant’Orsola stands as a testament to Palermo’s rich artistic and religious history. Its ornate decorations and intriguing history offer a glimpse into the past. As you leave this church reflect on the stories and artistry you have witnessed.