Hidden amongst Palermo’s bustling streets stands the Chiesa di Santa Chiara. Its story begins long before its construction. The very ground beneath our feet holds the remnants of ancient Carthaginian walls. Imagine the city’s evolution from Punic settlement to the thriving metropolis we see today.
Chiesa di Santa Chiara itself wasn’t always this beautiful Baroque church. In 1344 under Aragonese rule it began life as a church for Clarissan nuns. Their cloistered monastery stood beside it. Count Matteo Sclafani a powerful figure of the time commissioned its construction. The church underwent a dramatic transformation in 1678. Architect Paolo Amato oversaw a major refurbishment. The original design was lost to the 1726 earthquake and World War II bombings. The current façade actually uses the portal from another church the Madonna delle Grazie dei Macellai.
The interior of the Chiesa di Santa Chiara is a feast for the eyes. It boasts a single nave with side chapels. These chapels have intriguing features. Each wall had compartments. This allowed the nuns to attend services while unseen by the public. Examine the artwork within. Look closely at the altarpiece in the first chapel on the right. Olivio Sozzi painted this beautiful piece depicting Saint Clare in 1713. It arrived as a gift from the nuns of the Valverde monastery. It’s a testament to the strong bonds between religious communities.
The church is filled with artistic treasures. The apse dome is the work of Amato. The allegorical frescoes that grace the apse are attributed to Paolo Martorana. They depict Christ granting the keys to Saint Peter. A stunning Triumph of the Ark of the Covenant by Gaspare Fumagalli fills the apse’s half-dome. Antonio Grano’s Triumph of the Cross adorns the cupola ceiling. The spandrels show the four cardinal virtues beautifully personified.
The main altar is breathtaking. It is a magnificent display of lapis lazuli agate amethyst and colored marbles. Gilded bronze adds to its opulence. Four paintings by Guglielmo Borremans adorn the walls. They depict pivotal moments in the lives of Saints Francis and Clare. These were painted in 1735. Notice the busts of female saints that watch over the altar. These include Saints Rosalia Restituta Margaret of Scotland and Elizabeth of Portugal.
The Chiesa di Santa Chiara is more than just a place of worship. It’s a living testament to the enduring spirit of Palermo. A place that seamlessly blends its rich history with its vibrant present. It’s a reminder that even amidst war and destruction beauty and faith can endure. It’s a story written in stone and painted in vibrant hues. A story that still unfolds today within these ancient walls.