La Teja

Hidden within Montevideo lies La Teja, a neighborhood brimming with a unique blend of industry and resilience. La Teja wasn’t always known by this name. Established in 1842, it was originally christened Pueblo Victoria, in honor of the then-Queen of England. The name La Teja, meaning “the tile,” emerged later. Some say it refers to the distinct clay tiles used in the area’s early architecture. Others believe it’s a nod to the slave quarters, perhaps referencing the tiles they made or even serving as slang for the enslaved men themselves. La Teja is bordered by several other neighborhoods. Tres Ombúes lies to the northwest, Belvedere to the north, El Prado and Nueva Savona to the northeast, and Capurro to the southeast. Its southern edge meets the Bay of Montevideo, while the western part of its southern border runs along the Pantanoso Creek, across which sits Villa del Cerro. La Teja is a mix of residential and industrial properties, largely occupied by working-class communities. It also houses a number of informal settlements built on former industrial land. The industrial heart of La Teja beats strong, most notably with the La Teja Refinery. This is Uruguay’s only oil refinery, owned by the national industry ANCAP. Primarily producing light-grade oil products for domestic use, it connects to an oil terminal in the Port of Montevideo, and has been in operation since 1937. As of 2022, most of Uruguay’s petroleum imports come from the United States, with a portion also arriving from Brazil. The refinery’s presence has had a significant impact on La Teja, shaping not only its economy but also its environment. This has given rise to a vibrant environmental justice movement, particularly focused on addressing lead contamination. In the early 2000s, high lead exposure was discovered in local children, sparking a community-led campaign for a “Life Without Lead.” This movement brought national attention to the issue, leading to policy changes and increased public health awareness. La Teja also has a strong sense of community, with institutions like the Parish Church of the Holy Family and local radio stations serving as important hubs. This neighborhood is a testament to the strength and resilience of its people, a place where industrial history and community activism intertwine.