Peeking through the wrought iron gate, the Rotonda della Besana looks like a calm oasis. This chic green space has a captivating history. I will tell you about the Rotonda della Besana.
The Rotonda della Besana was built between 1695 and 1732. It served as a cemetery for the Ospedale Maggiore. The Milanese called it “Foppone dell’Ospedale Maggiore”. Foppone means large grave. The complex hosted about 150000 burials in catacombs. Those catacombs are no longer accessible.
In 1787 the cemetery closed. Austrian rule moved cemeteries outside the city walls. Napoleon planned to transform the Rotonda into a Pantheon. Milan was to be the capital of the Kingdom of Italy. But this never happened.
The Rotonda was used as a stable and barn. Later, it became a shelter for the chronically sick and a laundry building. In 1939, the Ospedale donated the structure to the Comune di Milano. The Comune restored the complex. It became a green area for cultural and social events.
The complex covers 7,100 square meters. Its name comes from its location on Via Enrico Besana. Architects Francesco Croce and Carlo Raffaello Raffagno designed the portico. Attilio Arrigoni designed the church.
The Rotonda della Besana features a lobate hectagonal colonnade portico. It encloses a garden. The deconsacrated church of San Michele ai Sepolcri sits inside. The portico has an undulating design. Vaults cover the arches facing the church. Small skulls decorate the capitals as a reminder of the building’s original use. The brick exterior features arches on pilasters. Windows and oculi punctuate the facade.
The church of San Michele ai Nuovi Sepolcri has a Greek cross plan. This was unusual for Milan at that time. A cupola tops the intersection of the arms. An octagonal lantern crowns the cupola. Inside, the church has three naves. Stone pillars support the wooden roof. Ionic capitals display skulls and bones. These decorations allude to the complex’s original purpose.
In 2014, the Museo dei Bambini di Milano opened here. It is a permanent center for cultural and artistic projects for children. The Rotonda Bistro is located inside the little church.
Imagine the Rotonda della Besana in the 1700s. Funeral processions entered through the gates. Mourners gathered in the porticoed cemetery. The air was thick with incense and the somber whispers of prayers. Today, the Rotonda della Besana offers a peaceful escape. Children play in the gardens. Visitors enjoy art exhibitions. The past and present blend in this unique space.