Was it magic or faith that protected Milan’s nobles from the plague? This is the Crocetta di San Calimero. It stands in Corso di Porta Romana in Largo Crocetta. This commemorative sculpture marks a place of historical and cultural importance.
The Crocetta di San Calimero is more than just a monument. It whispers tales of Milan’s past struggles and unwavering faith. The area is considered a place of magic. It is also beneficial. It once protected Milanese nobles from the plague. Nearby stands the Chiesa del Paradiso. Inside lies an ancient Celtic stone of great value.
The monument itself is an obelisk. At its peak stands a figure. This is San Calimero. He was the fourth Bishop of Milan from 270 to 280 AD. During times of plague, this area transformed into an open-air church. That’s how it got the name Crocetta.
But what are these “crocette” that dot Milan? The first crocette appeared during the plague of 1372. Barnabò Visconti erected about ten around the Duomo. These were simple small altars. Each was topped with a cross. Positioned at road crossings they allowed people to attend Mass without leaving their homes.
The number of these columns increased during the plague of 1576. San Carlo Borromeo ordered 19. His successor Federico Borromeo ordered another 39. San Carlo ordered that in each place there should be high columns of living stones. At the top was to be a large Cross. It should have a Christ nailed to it.
At its height, there were 59 crosses. These crosses had brotherhoods called the Sante Croce. However the brotherhood members argued. In 1711 Archbishop Giuseppe Archinto intervened. He defined each company’s territory. He reminded them that the cross of Christ is one.
These columns served as public prayer spaces. They marked stations for the Via Crucis processions. A document from Archbishop Federico Borromeo details the procession of June 11 1630. It carried San Carlo’s body through the city.
Over time the style of the crocette evolved. People preferred columns with statues of saints. They transformed into votive columns. One example is San Glicerio. Today it stands between Via Senato and the Public Gardens. Once it was in Via Larga. It’s a simple obelisk resting on four spheres.
Destruction befell the crosses. First the French and then the Austrians targeted them. They considered them obstacles. In 1784 Emperor Joseph II suppressed the brotherhoods. Architect Leopoldo Pollack listed 35 monuments to eliminate. Twenty-four were destroyed. The materials were sold at auction.
Few crocette remain today. One is the Crocetta di San Calimero. It gave its name to Largo Crocetta and the metro stop. Another is San Barnaba which became San Carlo. It was moved after the Austrian governor’s carriage crashed into it.
Another is the column of Verziere. Made of Baveno stone it features Christ the Redeemer. Its construction took a century due to disputes. It even served as a monument to the Cinque Giornate. The names of the fallen are on bronze plaques around its base. Today it is dismantled for metro line construction.
Finally there is the Crocetta di San Lazzaro. Erected in 1728 it comforted heretics. It also comforted witches. It was for criminals condemned to burn at the stake. Lazzaro is based on the leper Eleazaro from the Gospel of Luke.
The Crocetta di San Calimero stands as a reminder. It speaks to Milan’s history, faith, and resilience. Take a moment to appreciate this silent witness. It has seen centuries of change unfold around it.