Hidden beneath the Duomo’s grandeur lies a secret. A secret whispered through the ages. This is the Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti.
The Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti wasn’t always hidden. Once it stood proudly. It was one of Milan’s first baptisteries. Imagine it in its prime. Between the churches of Santa Maria Maggiore and Santa Tecla. This was in the late Roman Empire. Mediolanum. Modern Milan. The capital of the Western Roman Empire.
Built between 378 and 397 it was exclusively for men. Women were baptized elsewhere. In 387 Bishop Ambrogio baptized a very important man here. Saint Augustine. Augustine’s son Adeodato was also baptized here. So were some of Augustine’s friends. This is a fact not many know. A smart-aleck fact to impress your friends.
The Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti was octagonal. Nineteen point three meters in diagonal. Seven point four meters per side. Why octagonal? Saint Ambrogio explained the symbolism. The number eight represents resurrection and eternity. It also echoes the eight Beatitudes.
The baptistery had a large octagonal pool. It was four and a half meters below the floor. Three steps led down into the pool. The water flowed from east to west. This symbolized the journey from darkness to light. The pool had a central hole. A special channel supplied the water.
The internal walls had marble panels. These were later replaced with frescoes. The floor had white and black tiles in geometric patterns. The ceiling held a beautiful golden mosaic.
Sadly the Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti was demolished in 1388. They needed space for the Duomo. Its remains were rediscovered during excavations in 1961-1962. Now you can visit this hidden marvel beneath Milan’s magnificent cathedral. You can see the marble floor and the hole in the center of the water tank. You are standing on sacred ground. A place of rebirth. A testament to Milan’s rich history. A true hidden gem. The Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti.