“Finally, we’re at Angkor!” someone exclaims. That’s exactly the feeling the South Gate of Angkor Thom evokes. Here at the South Gate, you’re not just entering an ancient city. You are crossing a threshold into a world of architectural brilliance and historical grandeur.
The South Gate is the most famous of Angkor Thom’s five gates. Many consider it an emblem of the city. King Jayavarman VII built it in the late 12th century. This gate is the best-preserved.
Before you, the South Gate stands tall. It reaches over 20 meters high. Giant stone faces crown the structure. Each faces a cardinal direction. These faces resemble those at Bayon Temple. People believe they represent Avalokiteshvara. This is the Bodhisattva bearing the king’s likeness.
Look around at the causeway leading to the gate. Notice the rows of figures. To your left are 54 gods. To your right, 54 demons. They depict the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. This scene symbolizes the eternal struggle between good and evil. They pull on a naga, a mythical serpent, in a tug-of-war. The churning of the ocean is from Indian mythology.
Originally, each of Angkor Thom’s five gates had these balustrades. Each had two times 54 figures. That makes 108. This is a holy number in Mahayana Buddhism. Today, the South Gate has the most complete set.
The eastern railing shows the Ashura demons. You can identify them by their grimacing faces. Some original heads are now in museums. Cement copies replace them. These copies are of a much brighter color. The other row shows the Devas. These gods look more friendly. They are less well-preserved. More heads are missing from this side. The sculptures are connected by a rope. This rope forms the serpent.
The moat broadens the gate’s grandeur. It is 100 meters wide. The causeway crosses it. This is the best-preserved causeway in Angkor Thom.
Once you pass through the South Gate, you enter Angkor Thom. It was once a bustling city center. Now, it is a site of awe-inspiring ruins. The Bayon Temple lies ahead. So does the Royal Palace and the Terrace of the Elephants.
Consider that Mt. Mandara is symbolized by the Bayon temple. It stands in the center of Angkor Thom. It is right in the middle between the rows of giants at the South Gate and the North Gate.
Remember to look at the faces of the demons in the morning. The light illuminates them from the side. In the afternoon, the light hits them frontally.
The South Gate stands as a testament. It shows the artistic and engineering skills of the Khmer civilization. The South Gate is more than an entrance. It’s a journey into Cambodia’s rich cultural heritage. It is a prelude to the wonders within Angkor Thom. It is a spiritual welcome to this ancient city.