“Fukuwauchi, Oniwasoto!” Have you heard those words echoing through Kyoto? They are central to understanding the Yoshida Shrine. The Yoshida Shrine is a Shinto shrine. It stands on Yoshida Mountain in Kyoto.
Founded in 859 by the Fujiwara clan, Yoshida Shrine holds a unique place in Shinto history. The shrine became an object of Imperial patronage during the early Heian period. In 965, Emperor Murakami sent messengers to report important events to the guardian kami of Japan. Initially, these heihaku were presented to 16 shrines. In 991, Emperor Ichijo added three more shrines to Murakami’s list including Yoshida Shrine.
Yoshida Kanetomo, a scholar and priest, significantly shaped Yoshida Shrine in the 15th century. He established a unique form of Shinto known as Yoshida Shinto. This new religion quickly gained popularity. It provided a framework for Buddhism and Shinto to spiritually coexist.
Kanetomo built a new octagonal shrine on the complex. Its eight pillars hinted at his ambition. The number eight is closely tied to the royal family and reflects imperial power. Yoshida declared that Amaterasu was enshrined there. She was not the main kami but a subsidiary deity to Kuni-no-Tokotachi.
Yoshida elevated Kuni-no-Tokotachi to the supreme kami of the universe. He created his own sect of Shinto. The main shrine to Kuni-no-Tokotachi is hidden behind a closed gate. It is flanked by smaller shrines to Amaterasu and Toyouke. A wall of shrines surrounds it. They are dedicated to all the other kami in Japan. After his death, Yoshida was buried on the shrine complex. A small shrine was built over his body. This created a precedent for enshrining the spirits of important men as kami.
Yoshida Shrine is known for driving away evil spirits. The grandest festival is Setsubun. It is held annually from February 2nd to 4th. It is one of the biggest festivals in Kyoto. On February 3rd, crowds gather for a Shinto ritual called tsuinashiki. Demons symbolizing ill will emerge at the turn of the seasons. They are exorcised in a battle between bad and good demons. People scatter roasted soybeans chanting “Fukuwauchi, Oniwasoto”. This means “Happiness come in. Demons go out.”
Another notable sub-shrine is Daigengu Saijosho. It is only open on the 1st day of every month and for Setsubun. Daigengu’s hexagonal building enshrines all 3,132 kami. This gives you the chance to pray to all Japanese deities at once. Yoshida Shrine continues to be an important Shinto institution today. It maintains ties to Kyoto University. It is known for its festivals.
So, as you explore Yoshida Shrine remember its history. Think about the powerful figures and unique traditions that have shaped this sacred place. It is more than just a shrine. It is a testament to the evolving nature of Shinto and the enduring spirit of Kyoto.