Could the whispers of ancient Kabul tell tales of two brothers who brought faith to its heart? Here at the Ashuquan O Arefan Shrine, nestled in Kabul’s old city, those whispers seem to echo through time. This shrine isn’t just a place of worship; it’s a living testament to the enduring power of belief and brotherhood. The Ashuquan O Arefan Shrine holds the tombs of two revered figures, Khoja Abdus Salam, known as Ashuqan (the Lover), and Khoja Abdus Samad, known as Arefan (the Enlightened). Legend claims these brothers introduced Islam to Kabul in the 8th century, during the third Caliphate. They are often referred to as the sons of the famed Persian poet Khwaja Abdullah Ansari. Some even consider them the adopted sons of the Prophet Muhammad himself. Their graves, nestled within a larger graveyard, are a place of pilgrimage for those seeking blessings, good luck, and prosperity. Imagine the countless hands that have touched the ancient stones, each carrying a silent prayer. The shrine itself is a blend of old and new. A modern concrete structure protects the grave of Khoja Abdus Salam. You access it through a traditional portico, a mosque-like timber structure that leads to a dimly lit, semi-underground corridor. Imagine walking this path, lined with intricate lattice screens, the air thick with the scent of history. The shrine complex also includes a mosque dating back to the early 20th century. Its mihrab, the domed winter mosque, and the long corridor boast beautifully decorated plasterwork. The Aga Khan Trust for Culture has played a vital role in preserving this historical gem. They’ve restored the roofs, the timber screens, the carved entrance door, and even uncovered hidden decorated plaster niches within the portico. The entire roof over Khoja Abdus Samad’s grave has been rebuilt, its internal plaster and marble decoration painstakingly restored. Even the courtyard has been carefully landscaped, creating a serene space for contemplation. Today, the Ashuquan O Arefan Shrine remains a vital hub for the local community, particularly for the Naqshbandi order of Sufis. On Thursdays and Fridays, the shrine buzzes with activity as people from all corners of Afghanistan flock here to pray and seek solace. The Ashuquan O Arefan Shrine is more than just bricks and mortar. It is a vessel of stories, a beacon of faith, and a testament to the enduring spirit of Kabul.
Paghman Bridge
Slipping through time, let’s journey back to a Kabul brimming with life, where the Paghman Bridge stood as a silent