Here, the echoes of a tumultuous past resonate. Welcome to Wadi Salib. Once a vibrant Palestinian neighborhood in Haifa, Wadi Salib now carries layers of history etched into its very stones.
Wadi Salib began in 1761. It was established outside the old city walls after Zahir al-Umar founded modern Haifa. Muslims and Christian Arabs populated the area. By the mid-19th century, Haifa expanded outwards.
In the early 20th century, Jewish residents arrived. Wadi Salib, along with nearby Wadi Nisnas, remained significant Arab neighborhoods. The 1930s and 1940s saw riots erupt here. These protests were against British rule and increased Jewish immigration.
After the 1948 Arab-Israeli War, the area changed dramatically. About 60,000 Arabs left Haifa. Few were allowed to return to Wadi Salib. Buildings belonging to Palestinian refugees were confiscated under the Absentee Property Law. Only around 3,000 Arabs remained in Haifa. This was just 8.5% of the city’s previous population. Many concentrated in Wadi Nisnas.
Between 1948 and 1949, around 24,000 Jewish immigrants settled in Wadi Salib. Many were Holocaust survivors. Moroccan Jews followed soon after.
Then came the Wadi Salib riots of 1959. A Mizrahi Jewish resident was shot by police during a brawl. This sparked widespread demonstrations against the government. Protesters also targeted the Labor Party and the Histadrut. People referred to it as the Moroccans’ revolt.
The Wadi Salib riots highlighted the economic hardships faced by Jewish immigrants from Arab countries. Arabs who tried to return to Wadi Salib faced obstacles. They could not get permits to build or renovate. The neighborhood declined into a slum.
Today, Wadi Salib faces further transformation. Many residents, both Jews and Arabs, are considered squatters. They have been gradually evicted. Some historic buildings are being renovated. They are turning into nightclubs and theaters.
Look around you. The Palace of the Pasha, built in Ottoman times, still stands. Nearby is a Turkish bathhouse. It was once used by local families. A building now housing army veterans once hosted an Oriental club. It featured musicians and dancers from Cairo.
Even the old Muslim cemetery has been affected. It was partially uprooted to make way for a highway. Yet, the Istiklal Mosque continues to operate in Wadi Salib.
Controversy surrounds current development plans. The Haifa Economic Corporation aims to create office and commercial spaces. Their design incorporates Turkish and Arab construction elements. The project faces criticism for evicting remaining families. The demolition of buildings, including the home of Emil Touma, is also controversial.
As you stand here in Wadi Salib, remember its complex story. It is a story of displacement, immigration, and ethnic tensions. It is a place where the past and present collide. The story of Wadi Salib remains a significant part of Haifa’s identity.