Beneath our feet once flowed the River Seveso. Now, we stand before San Giovanni in Laterano. This church carries a history deeper than its modern facade suggests.
San Giovanni in Laterano’s story twists and turns. It begins with a church demolished in 1936. That original church stood in the city center. It was at the intersection of Via del Pesce and Via Tre Alberghi. The area was known as Bottonuto.
Legend says the first church dates back to the 4th century. Bishop Mona of Milan oversaw its construction. By 1388, it served as the parish church.
The original name was San Giovanni Isolano. Several theories explain this name. One theory suggests it came from the founder, Isolano. Another claims it was due to the River Seveso flowing beneath. “Laterano” is possibly a corrupted form of “Isolano”. A third theory connects it to indulgences granted by Pope Leo X. These were similar to those granted to the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano in Rome.
Now, look at the church before you. This isn’t the original San Giovanni in Laterano. This building was erected in 1928. It was initially named Madonna del Rosario di Pompei. It stood on the site of the old oratory of Saints Fermo and Rustico.
In 1934, the title of San Giovanni in Laterano shifted here. The original church was demolished as part of a city plan. This new church inherited the old church’s legacy.
Plans existed to build a grand temple dedicated to Maria Regina Pacis. Architect Giovanni Muzio designed it. It was planned for Piazza Leonardo da Vinci. World War II stopped that project. Instead, San Giovanni in Laterano was expanded in the 1960s. The crypt opened in 1963. Work continued with an expansion. This included the chapel of San Giuseppe. A balcony, apse, and sacristy were added.
The chapel of the Baptistery and the Sacred Heart altarpiece were completed. The painter Fossombrone created the altarpiece. Architect Buttafava designed the new chapel of the Crucifix.
Space was a major factor in these changes to San Giovanni in Laterano. The expansions improved the building’s aesthetics. The exterior gained new dimensions. The use of terracotta gave the architectural complex a finished look. Inside, the addition of transepts created more space.
Today, San Giovanni in Laterano stands as a functional church. It has a simple efficiency. It bears the name of a church with ancient roots. The original San Giovanni in Laterano may be gone. But its spirit lives on in this modern church. It is a reminder of Milan’s ever-changing urban landscape.