A silent question hangs in the air what stories could this monument tell if it could speak? Right here stands the Colonna del Verziere. It is more than just a column. It is a piece of Milan’s soul. Once, the area bustled as the Verziere. This was Milan’s greengrocery market until 1783. That is why it is called Colonna del Verziere.
This column’s story began amidst terrible times. In the late 1570s, plague ravaged Milan. Over 18000 people died. That was one tenth of the city’s population. Churches were shut. Services were held in the open air. People watched from their windows. After the plague, Milanese citizens replaced altars with votive columns to give thanks. Each column was dedicated to a different saint.
The Colonna del Verziere became dedicated to Christ the Redeemer. It was commissioned by the Confraternity of the Sacred Cross of Porta Tosa. They wanted to celebrate the end of the plague. They also wanted to ward off witches believed to haunt the area. This column was built in Baveno. Then they transported it to Milan by boat.
However building the Colonna del Verziere was difficult. Construction began in 1580. But it was not finished until 1673. It even got the nickname “Colonna infinita” because it took so long. In 1583, authorities stopped the works because the builders lacked a permit. They even demolished parts of the structure. But the confraternity persisted. They reapplied for permissions.
In 1611, workers damaged the base while installing the column shaft. More delays followed. Then in 1630, another major plague hit Milan. The column’s base became an altar again. Finally, in 1673, Cardinal Alfonso Litta inaugurated the completed column. The statue of the Redentore watched over the Verziere.
Later the column nearly vanished. In 1786, Emperor Joseph II wanted to improve traffic flow. He ordered the demolition of many votive columns. But the Colonna del Verziere survived. In the 1860s, people repurposed the column. They used it to commemorate Milanese citizens who died during the Five Days of Milan. Their names are on bronze plaques on the pedestal. In 1927, the original statue was replaced with a bronze copy.
A local legend surrounds the Colonna del Verziere. People say the statue of Christ turned its head. It was supposedly disgusted by a girl’s suicide. She jumped from a balcony nearby because of a tragic love story.
Recently, the Colonna del Verziere was temporarily removed. This was to allow for the construction of the Manufatto Augusto. During the disassembly, workers discovered an older column embedded within its base. Some believe it could be the original altar used during the 1576 plague.
Now as we stand here, remember the Colonna del Verziere’s long history. It has survived plagues and bureaucratic delays. It has been an altar and a monument to fallen heroes. The Colonna del Verziere remains a symbol of Milan’s enduring spirit.