Santa Maria degli Angeli

Has anyone ever heard of a “gancia”? In Palermo, at the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, or as the locals affectionately call it, “la Gancia,” this word takes on a special meaning. Santa Maria degli Angeli wasn’t always the grand church you see today. It began humbly in 1490 as a “gancia,” a sanctuary for sick and needy Franciscan friars, near the remnants of the Emir’s palace in the Kalsa district. Imagine those early friars, finding solace within these walls, a refuge from the bustling city. The church’s construction, however, wasn’t without its challenges. Archbishop Giovanni Paternò initially opposed the project. But papal intervention by Julius II in 1508 paved the way for its completion. Santa Maria degli Angeli stands as a testament to their perseverance, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, echoing St. Francis’s beloved Porziuncola chapel. The church’s exterior retains the original simplicity: stark, squared stone blocks. Two portals offer entry. The main portal, dating to 1530, boasts a classic rounded arch. The other portal, on Via Alloro, showcases a Catalan Gothic pointed arch and a bas-relief of Madonna degli Angeli. Step inside, and you’ll find layers of history. A single nave stretches towards the altar, flanked by eight deep chapels on each side. Look up to admire the 16th-century wooden ceiling, each coffer adorned with a golden star. The interior has seen its share of transformations. In 1672, the transept and presbytery collapsed, necessitating a baroque-style reconstruction. Yet, treasures remain. Frescoes by Filippo Tancredi and Antonio Grano depict Franciscan saints. The church walls themselves hold stories. On Via Alloro, a plaque marks the “buca della salvezza,” the “hole of salvation.” Here, in 1860, two revolutionaries, Gaspare Bivona and Filippo Patti, hid amongst the dead after a failed uprising against the Bourbons. They tunneled through the wall, aided by locals who staged a diversion. The “gancia” of Santa Maria degli Angeli became a haven in a time of turmoil. The adjacent convent, with its Catalan Gothic portal, played a role as well. It housed not only the friars but also, after 1854, the State Archives. Its bell tower even signaled the start of the 1860 uprising, a cry for freedom that echoed from Santa Maria degli Angeli.