Café de La Montaña Plaque

On a bustling corner in Madrid, a seemingly unassuming plaque marks the site of the legendary Café de La Montaña. This plaque, at the former entrance to the Grand Hotel de Paris, whispers tales of a bygone era. The Café de La Montaña, also known as the Nuevo Café de la Montaña, wasn’t just a café. It was a vibrant hub of intellectual and artistic life in late 19th and early 20th century Madrid. Imagine a vast space, nearly 7000 square feet, with soaring ceilings and sixteen exits. Light streamed in from its location on the Puerta del Sol, spilling onto eighty marble tables and plush, red upholstered chairs and divans. Here, politicians, writers, and musicians mingled, their conversations echoing through the grand room. This was a place where renowned figures like the writer Alejandro Sawa, who boasted a forehead kiss from Victor Hugo himself, and even the French poet Paul Verlaine, would gather. The Café de La Montaña is perhaps best known for an incident involving the renowned writer Ramón del Valle-Inclán. In 1899, a heated debate erupted between Valle-Inclán and the journalist Manuel Bueno. The argument, sparked by a proposed duel between two young men, escalated quickly. Valle-Inclán, known for his fiery temper, reportedly challenged Bueno with the words, “And what do you understand about that, you fool!?” Bueno, retaliated with his walking stick, striking Valle-Inclán’s arm. The injury, initially seemingly minor, led to a severe infection and ultimately, the amputation of Valle-Inclán’s left arm. While the loss of his arm was a tragic event, it became a defining characteristic of the writer, woven into his persona and legend. The Café de La Montaña, the site of this fateful encounter, became forever linked to Valle-Inclán’s story. This plaque serves as a reminder of the café’s vibrant past, a place where history, literature, and misfortune intertwined within the heart of Madrid. It’s a testament to a time when cafés were more than just places to grab a coffee. They were the beating hearts of a city, where ideas clashed, stories unfolded, and legends were born. So, next time you pass by the Apple store now standing on this site, remember the plaque. Remember the Café de La Montaña, and the ghosts of tertulias past.