Goya’s genius lives on within these walls. Here at the Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida, we find a unique blend of art, history, and devotion. This Ermita is more than just a chapel. It’s a masterpiece frozen in time.
The Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida stands as a neoclassical gem. It graces central Madrid. Known locally as Real Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, this chapel holds a special place in Spanish art history.
King Carlos IV ordered its construction. It was built from 1792 to 1798. Felipe Fontana designed the present structure. But it is Francisco Goya’s frescoes that truly set this Ermita apart.
Goya, with his assistant Asensio Juliá, adorned the chapel with breathtaking art. Completed in just six months in 1798, these frescoes depict miracles performed by Saint Anthony of Padua. The main cupola showcases Saint Anthony raising a man from the dead. He is also exonerating the man’s father of murder. Instead of 13th-century Lisbon, Goya set the scene in contemporary Madrid.
Look closely at the dome. Notice the vibrant colors and dynamic figures. Goya masterfully captures the energy of a Madrid crowd. He brings the miracle to life. The frescoes aren’t just paintings. They are windows into another world.
This Ermita’s history goes back further. Two prior chapels stood on this land in the 1730s. The area was once a farm called La Florida. This sacred ground has a long history of devotion.
In 1905, the structure was declared a national monument. This recognition cemented its importance to Spain’s cultural heritage. In 1919, Goya’s remains were moved here from Bordeaux. He had died there in 1828. A strange detail emerged. Goya’s skull was missing. The Spanish consul wired Madrid. He informed them of the missing skull. The reply was direct. “Send Goya, with or without head.”
To preserve Goya’s masterpiece, an identical chapel was built in 1928. The original Ermita became a museum. Goya’s headless remains were moved again. The new chapel allowed worship services to continue. It protected the original frescoes from damage.
Every year on June 13, the chapel hosts a lively pilgrimage. Young unwed women come to pray to Saint Anthony. They ask for a partner. This tradition adds a vibrant layer to the Ermita’s story.
The Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida offers a serene escape. It is a chance to witness Goya’s genius up close. It’s a place where art, history, and faith converge.
Before you leave the Ermita, take a moment to reflect. Consider the layers of history beneath your feet. Think of Goya’s spirit. He rests here. Remember the miracle depicted above. The Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida is a treasure. It is a testament to Madrid’s rich cultural heritage.