Did whispers ever reach you about Hwanggeum Apartment 1937? This unassuming building, nestled in Seoul’s Seodaemun District, holds a captivating story within its walls. Hwanggeum Apartment 1937, originally known as Chungjeong Apartment, has witnessed a dramatic sweep of history since its completion in 1937. This makes it the oldest surviving apartment building in South Korea. It stands as a silent observer of Korea’s transformation.
Originally named “Toyota Apartment” after its Japanese owner, Hwanggeum Apartment 1937 was a symbol of modernity. Constructed with reinforced concrete, it was a pioneering structure in Korea during the Japanese colonial period. It housed a mix of Korean and Japanese residents. Among them was Hwang San-deok, a figure who would later rise to become South Korea’s Minister of Justice. The apartment’s triangular design, featuring three interconnected buildings with an internal courtyard and central heating, was a novel concept at the time.
The apartment’s story took a turn with the escalation of the Second Sino-Japanese War. Rent control imposed by the Government-General of Chōsen impacted apartment owners. Leading to the conversion of Toyota Apartment into a hotel, and later a restaurant. Liberation in 1945 brought further change, with the US Army Military Government seizing the building. It was renamed Traymore Hotel and served as a dormitory for American soldiers. During the Korean War, it housed both North Korean and UN troops, and even reportedly the CIA.
In the postwar era, the building was granted to Kim Byeong-jo, who falsely claimed his sons died in the war. He renovated it, added a floor, and renamed it Korea Tourist Hotel. The deception was uncovered, the building was reclaimed and auctioned. It returned to its residential purpose, becoming Yurim Apartment, changing hands multiple times. A road expansion in 1978 resulted in the demolition of a part of the building, altering its original façade. The complex eventually received its current name, Hwanggeum Apartment 1937, in the 1980s, derived from the adjacent Chungjeong-ro street.
Despite efforts to preserve Hwanggeum Apartment 1937 as a historic landmark, its deteriorating condition led to a decision for demolition. This unassuming building, standing amidst Seoul’s bustling modernity, silently carries decades of stories within its concrete frame. A poignant reminder of the ever-changing urban landscape. While the physical structure may disappear, its historical imprint remains. A testament to the changing tides of a nation, etched into the very fabric of Seoul.