Tradition says, “The year begins at Sumiyossan.” This is Sumiyoshi Taisha. It is a Shinto shrine in Osaka. Locals affectionately call it Sumiyoshi-san. It’s famous for New Year’s crowds. They gather for hatsumōde.
Sumiyoshi Taisha enshrines the Sumiyoshi Sanjin. These are Sokotsutsu no Ono-mikoto Nakatsutsu no Ono-mikoto and Uwatsutsu no Ono-mikoto. Okinagatarashi-hime no Mikoto also rests here. This is Empress Jingū.
Tamomi no Sukune founded Sumiyoshi Taisha in 211. Empress Jingū told him to enshrine the Sumiyoshi Sanjin. She had been told to do so by an oracle. The Tsumori clan has headed Sumiyoshi Taisha since Emperor Ōjin. They descend from Tamomi no Sukune’s son.
Sumiyoshi Taisha connects to ancient Yamato royalty. It played a role in diplomacy and sailing. The shrine protected Imperial embassies to China. The Tsumori clan boarded embassy ships as head priests. Ships departed from Suminoe no Tsu. This was Japan’s oldest international port. Emperor Nintoku opened it. It marked the Silk Road’s entrance into Japan.
Until the Edo period, the shrine faced the sea. The landscape was known for white sand and green pines. This scenery became known as the Sumiyoshi design.
An old couple prayed at Sumiyoshi Taisha in the folktale “Issun-bōshi”. Their prayers were answered. Their child departed from Sumiyoshi harbor.
The honden is built in the Sumiyoshi-zukuri style. It is the oldest example of this architecture. It’s a national treasure. The roof has an okichigi. There are also five square katsuogi. No corridors surround the sanctuary. A plank tamagaki fence surrounds it. An ara-imi fence further encloses it.
The pillars are round. They stand on stone foundations. Planks run horizontally between the pillars. The nave is visible from the front. Beyond it lies the inner shrine.
One stone torii is called the Kakutorii. The middle bar does not extend outside the posts. All pieces have square edges. This torii type is named Sumiyoshi torii.
Sumiyoshi Taisha is one of Japan’s oldest shrines. It was founded in the 3rd century. This was before Buddhism’s arrival. It displays Sumiyoshi-zukuri architecture. This style lacks Asian mainland influence. Only two other shrine styles are purely Japanese. These are Shinmei-zukuri and Taisha-zukuri.
Sumiyoshi-zukuri features straight roofs. Later centuries commonly used curved roofs. It is decorated by two sets of forked finials. There are also five horizontal billets. Entrances are under the gable. A fence surrounds the buildings.
Sumiyoshi shrines protect travelers, fishermen, and sailors at sea. They are usually near harbors. Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Taisha has four main halls. The first three face west in a line. The fourth stands beside the third. This arrangement is rare. Shrines after the Nara Period mostly face south. This pertains to Chinese geomancy.
The Sorihashi Bridge leads to the main shrine. It arches high over a pond. Sumiyoshi Taisha is a spiritual haven. It has stood for centuries.