“Betel Market” is what Talat Phlu literally translates to. Are you ready to explore a place with such a unique name?
Welcome to Talat Phlu. This historic community and marketplace sits by the Khlong Bangkok Yai canal. It is in the Thon Buri district on the Thonburi side of Bangkok.
Let’s step back in time. Talat Phlu’s history stretches back to King Taksin’s reign. This was after Ayutthaya fell in 1767. Thonburi was then the new capital of Siam.
Talat Phlu became home to overseas Chinese. Thai-Chinese Muslims and Mon people also settled here. When King Rama I established the Rattanakosin Kingdom he moved the capital across the river. Most Chinese residents relocated to Sampheng but some stayed. Their descendants live here to this day.
Vast phlu or betel plantations once thrived here. Thai-Chinese families owned them. These stretched along Khlong Bang Sai Kai to Khlong Bang Phrom and Khlong Bang Waek. The harvested phlu was sold here. This happened from Wat Ratchakhrue to Wat Intharam. The area became the main wholesale market. Hence the name Talat Phlu meaning betel market. Today betel planting is gone. Yet the name Talat Phlu remains.
Talat Phlu flourished in the 1950s and 1960s. It rivaled Yaowarat as a Chinatown of Bangkok. Two cinemas stood side by side. Si Talat Phlu or Vic Tia low theatre was popular. Si Nakhon Thon or Vic Sung high theatre also drew crowds. The Poolvaraluk family owned Si Talat Phlu. They later founded Major Cineplex. Somsak Techaratanaprasert owned Si Nakhon Thon. He later chaired Sahamongkol Film International.
Today Talat Phlu excels in street food. Gui chai dumplings filled with garlic chives are a highlight. This Teochew cuisine came to Siam around King Rama V’s reign. Shophouses and buildings display Chinese style. Delicate stucco and wooden fretwork decorate them.
Talat Phlu extends beyond its subdistrict. It includes Bang Yi Ruea Bukkhalo and Dao Khanong. Often the name refers to the subdistrict alone.
You can reach Talat Phlu easily. Talat Phlu railway station serves the Mae Klong Railway Line. The Talat Phlu BTS station is on the Silom Line. Pho Nimit BTS and Wutthakat BTS stations are also nearby. Ratchadaphisek and Thoet Thai Roads are main thoroughfares. Soi Phet Kasem 23 offers a shortcut from Phet Kasem Road. Buses serve Talat Phlu too.
Talat Phlu and its railway station appear in the 2024 film How to Make Millions Before Grandma Dies. The movie was filmed here. Mengju or Ama lived here.
Talat Phlu offers a taste of history and culture. Its street food and architecture create a feast for the senses. I hope you enjoyed this tour.