Have you heard the tale of an abbey turned arsenal? That’s St Mary’s Abbey for you. It stood near Abbey Street and Capel Street in Dublin. Its lands once stretched far along the River Liffey. St Mary’s Abbey even owned estates elsewhere in Ireland. This gave it power over its territories.
Founded in 846 by King Mael Sechnaill mac Maele Ruanaid St Mary’s Abbey started as Benedictine. In 1139, it shifted to the Congregation of Savigny. By 1147, it became a Cistercian abbey.
Fire ravaged St Mary’s Abbey in 1303. The abbey and church lay in ruins but reconstruction followed. City records stored within were lost to the flames. Despite the setback, St Mary’s Abbey grew into one of Ireland’s wealthiest. It gained rights to salvage shipwrecks off Dublin’s coast. It could also manage lands in areas controlled by the “hostile Irish” without usual penalties.
In 1316, Dublin’s Mayor Robert de Nottingham attacked St Mary’s Abbey. The Earl of Ulster Richard Óg de Burgh was visiting. Suspicion arose that de Burgh supported Edward Bruce’s march on Dublin. Some of de Burgh’s men died. Monks faced accusations of aiding Bruce. The abbey suffered destruction.
Walter Champfleur became Abbot of St Mary’s in 1467. For thirty years, he held the office. He advised Thomas Butler the 7th Earl of Ormond on politics and finance. Briefly, Champfleur was Keeper of the Great Seal of Ireland. His death around 1498 was mourned.
The Privy Council met in the Chapter House of St Mary’s Abbey. In 1534, Silken Thomas started his rebellion here. He dramatically threw down his Sword of State.
After 1539, came the Dissolution of the Monasteries. St Mary’s Abbey was given to John Travers. The church became an arsenal and a quarry. Monks’ lands were leased for homes and businesses.
Sir Gerald Moore received St Mary’s Abbey in 1619 from King James I. He became Viscount Moore of Mellifont. The Moore family resided in St Mary’s Abbey until the late 17th century. Henry Moore, the 1st Earl of Drogheda, built a mansion on O’Connell Street. He developed Henry, Moore, and Earl streets.
Stones from St Mary’s Abbey were used for Essex Bridge in 1676. This bridge is now Grattan Bridge. It leads to Parliament Street.
Non-conformist chapels once stood on St Mary’s Abbey grounds. Meeting House Lane owes its name to one such chapel. Burghers and Seceders held services here. The Capel Street Congregation evolved into Abbey Presbyterian Church.
Following the closure of Stafford Street Synagogue, the congregation purchased a former non-conformist chapel on part of the old abbey. This synagogue operated until 1892. Then, it relocated to Adelaide Road.
Dr Charles Lindsay acquired the old monastic lands of Glasnevin. These lands once belonged to St Mary’s Abbey. Around 1832, they became Glasnevin Cemetery.
An amateur archaeologist rediscovered St Mary’s Abbey in the 1880s. It was found seven feet underground beneath a bakery. John Thomas Gilbert publicized these findings. Parts of the old walls remain visible. Heritage Ireland now cares for the site. The Chapter House welcomes visitors via a stone staircase.
Excavations in 2023 unearthed over 100 skeletons. They dated back to the early 11th century. In 2014, Trinity College Dublin acquired a manuscript from St Mary’s Abbey. It dated from 1304.
Today, only the chapter-house remains of St Mary’s Abbey. This relic has been restored and open to the public. The chapter-house serves as a reminder of the rich history of St Mary’s Abbey.