Xã Bạch Đằng

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“Independence,” a concept etched in Vietnamese history resonates deeply here at Xã Bạch Đằng. This area wasn’t always a park. It was once a vital part of Saigon’s port. Imagine ships unloading cargo here. Picture French colonial officials bustling about. Xã Bạch Đằng has witnessed centuries of change.

Let’s delve into the past. Scholar Petrus Ky said this waterfront was once called Bến Ngự. That means “royal wharf” in Vietnamese. It was a landing stage for royalty. The Khmer name Compong-luong suggests a history dating back to the 17th century. Saigon was then a Cambodian settlement. It was known as Prey Nokor.

During French colonial rule, this area transformed. The Mercantile port of Saigon used wharves north of the arroyo Chinois. That extended to the modern-day Mê Linh Square. In 1881, these wharves became the River port. The River Shipping Company managed it. A replacement mercantile port was built in Khánh Hội. This quayside area had many names. It was Quai de Donnai. Then it became Quai Napoléon in 1865. In 1870 it changed to Quai du Commerce. Later, in 1896 it was Quai Francis Garnier. Finally, in 1920 it was Quai le Myre de Vilers. A tramway track was installed along the quay in 1890.

North of the River port was the Naval port. The French Navy controlled it. This quay was Quai Primauguet. In 1920, it became Quai d’Argonne. The Naval Commander’s headquarters stood here. So did the Naval Artillery and Naval Barracks. The Saigon Naval Shipyard was located north of the quay.

After the French departed, the Saigon Port Authority took over the River port. The Republic of Vietnam managed the Naval port. Later, the Socialist Republic of Vietnam Ministries of Defence took control. In 1955, the South Vietnamese government gave both Quai le Myre de Vilers and Quai d’Argonne a single Vietnamese name. That name was Bến Bạch Đằng.

Naval personnel used the colonial buildings until the 1990s. The old artillery compound was demolished. New hotels and office blocks were redeveloped here. The former Caserne Francis Garnier barracks still stands. It is the only surviving operational naval installation in this area.

In 2015, the city closed the River port at Bạch Đằng Quay for renovation. The Naval port closed too. The Ba Son Shipyard moved. Renovation happened in 2021. It finished in 2022. The park now has lotus flower-shaped grass areas and walkways. Today, only the Saigon Waterbus and hydrofoil service to Vũng Tàu operate here.

Bạch Đằng Quay stands as a reminder of Vietnam’s resilience. It has transformed from a royal wharf to a bustling port. It became a naval base and is now a serene park. It represents the enduring spirit of Ho Chi Minh City. It mirrors Vietnam’s journey through conflict and renewal. Take a moment to appreciate this space. It has witnessed centuries of history. It has silently shaped the city around it.

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