宝泉院

Beneath a canopy of ancient pines at Hōsen-in Temple, a secret lies. It’s not in the tranquil gardens or the soothing sounds of the suikinkutsu water feature. It resides in the very ceiling above you. Hōsen-in, nestled in the peaceful Ohara region of Kyoto, holds a piece of a turbulent past. This seemingly serene temple, a sub-temple of the larger Shorin-in, has a history intertwined with bloodshed and sacrifice. Founded in the early 11th century, around the same time as Shorin-in, Hōsen-in initially served as lodging for monks. But destiny had a different role in store for this quiet sanctuary. Step inside Hōsen-in and take a moment to admire the 700-year-old pine tree gracing the garden. Descend the steps to the lower garden where moss-covered stones and manicured hedges create a haven of tranquility. But remember, as you sip matcha tea in the tatami room, to glance upwards. The ceiling above bears witness to a pivotal moment in Japanese history. These blood-stained wooden floorboards are not from Hōsen-in. They are remnants of Fushimi Castle, silent testaments to the seppuku committed by Torii Mototada and his loyal retainers. In 1600, they chose death over surrender when the castle was besieged by Ishida Mitsunari’s forces. Their sacrifice bought precious time for Tokugawa Ieyasu, ultimately leading to his victory at the Battle of Sekigahara and the unification of Japan under the Tokugawa Shogunate. Here at Hōsen-in, the echoes of their loyalty resonate through the centuries, adding a poignant layer to the temple’s peaceful facade. So, as you listen to the gentle melodies of the suikinkutsu, remember the story etched in the ceiling above. Hōsen-in is more than a temple; it’s a living monument to courage, sacrifice, and the unexpected turns of history.