“Monzeki treasure,” they call it. Here before us stands a testament to Kyoto’s rich history: the Bishamondo-Monzeki. It is not just a stone, but rather a historic temple. This temple reveals its high status and rustic charm on this very hillside.
Bishamondo-Monzeki worships Bishamonten as its principal image. The temple is named after this deity. Bishamondo was established in 703. Emperor Monmu ordered its construction. Initially, it stood on Izumo Road north of Kyoto Gosho. It was first called Izumoji Temple on Mt. Goho. After many wars, it was rebuilt in Yamashina-Anshu in 1665.
Dengyo Daishi Saicho himself carved the principal image of Bishamonten. Saicho was the founder of the Tendai sect. He also founded Enryakuji Temple on Mt. Hiei. The statue was made from leftover wood. This wood remained after making the statue of Yakushi Nyorai in Enryakuji Temple’s Konponchudo Hall. Worshippers seek blessings here. They wish for prosperous trade and family safety.
The temple halls showcase valuable architecture from Japan’s modern age. Many structures are designated as tangible cultural properties of Kyoto. The temple overlooks the Yamashina Basin. Local people adore its cherry blossoms in spring and autumn leaves in fall.
Bishamondo-Monzeki is one of Kyoto’s five Monzeki temples of the Tendai school. This means that members of the imperial family or nobility come here. They study Buddhism, seek spiritual retreat, or become monks. The temple’s name, Bishamonten, refers to the main deity. This deity is worshipped here and known as the Shi-Tenno guardian of the north. Bishamonten is also one of Japan’s Seven Lucky Gods.
The temple’s entrance sits on a hill. It is a short walk from Yamashina JR station. Alternatively, a longer hike from Nanzen-ji temple passes through the forest mountain. The outer grounds become wonderful in autumn. The vibrant maple foliage colors the alleys, enhancing the view. Beautiful cherry trees also enliven the temple’s main esplanade in spring.
Don’t just admire the pavilions from the outside. Explore the insides of the main buildings. The main hall houses a wooden statue of Bishamonten. It features red lanterns and a phoenix-decorated ceiling. Reiden Pavilion protects an image of Amida Nyorai Buddha. A large dragon painting by an artist of the Kano School adorns the ceiling. Shinden Pavilion preserves cultural assets, including 116 fusuma panels with traditional paintings. It offers a view of the Bansui-en garden around a pond.
Bishamon-do Temple is quieter than central Kyoto’s tourist spots. It becomes more popular in November. Visitors come to admire the red Japanese maple trees. Visit during the changing seasons and in summer. You can enjoy the cool shade of the surrounding forest.
Notice the moving sliding door paintings in Shinkinden. They are the work of Kano Doun of the Edo Period. He used a technique known as reverse perspective. This artwork is rare. Also note the garden called Bansuien.
The principal deity of the temple is Bishamonten. Saicho carved it for Emperor Kanmu. He moved the capital of Japan to Heian-kyo, modern-day Kyoto. Bishamon-do is a prestigious temple. It welcomes many members of the imperial family as its successive chief priests. It stands as a beacon of prestige and peace of mind.