Gazing up at the Ehrenmal, can you feel the weight of history pressing down? This imposing 21-meter stele, crafted from Muschelkalk, stands as a stark reminder of the devastating impact of war. Here, at the eastern end of Rathausmarkt, by the Kleine Alster, the Ehrenmal, officially known as the Denkmal für die Gefallenen beider Weltkriege (Memorial for the Fallen of Both World Wars), dominates the landscape. The inscription, “Forty thousand sons of the city gave their lives for you – 1914-1918,” serves as a poignant tribute to the immense sacrifice made during the First World War. Across from this inscription, Ernst Barlach’s powerful relief, Trauernde Mutter mit Kind (Mourning Mother with Child), captures the profound grief and loss felt by those left behind. Barlach’s monumental 7.5-meter-high depiction of a pregnant mother, her tender gesture conveying solace amidst immense suffering, offers a glimpse into the future while acknowledging the deep sorrow of the present. The Ehrenmal’s story is not without controversy. Its emphasis on the suffering of the bereaved, rather than glorifying war, clashed with the prevailing nationalist sentiment of the 1930s. In 1938, the Nazis removed Barlach’s relief, deeming it “degenerate art,” and replaced it with an ascending eagle. After the Second World War, the original relief was meticulously reconstructed by Friedrich Bursch, the same stonemason who had originally carved it. The Ehrenmal was then rededicated to commemorate the fallen of both world wars. Each year on Volkstrauertag (National Day of Mourning), wreaths are laid here by representatives of the Hamburg Senate and Bürgerschaft. The Ehrenmal serves as a powerful reminder of the devastating cost of conflict and a testament to the resilience of the human spirit. As you stand before this monument, consider the weight of the sacrifices made and the enduring importance of peace.
Allerheiligen Kirche
Hidden within Hamburg’s Neugraben-Fischbek district lies the Allerheiligen Kirche. It serves as a spiritual home for Ukrainian immigrants. The Allerheiligen