Curious about a temple hidden amid Osaka’s vibrant chaos? That’s Hozenji Temple. It offers a serene escape.
Hozenji Temple was built in 1637. It honors Fudo Myoo. He is one of the five guardians of Buddhism. In the 1600s Namba and Dotonbori flourished. This area became an entertainment hub. Kabuki and bunraku performances thrived. Even Hozenji Temple joined in. Traditional rakugo storytelling and stage plays happened here.
Hozenji Temple is known for its Mizukake Fudo statue. Locals lovingly call it that. The tradition is to splash water on the statue. This is believed to bring good luck. Look closely. The statue is covered in moss. Thousands of visitors have poured water over it.
The Immovable Lord of Light stands here. That’s Fudo Myoo’s literal meaning. He has a fearsome grimace. He also has a third all-seeing eye. This helps guard Buddhism’s path. He holds a demon-slaying sword. He also holds a demon-binding rope. Flames rage behind him.
The monks chanted prayers for 1000 days. This was for the departed souls. The temple earned the nickname Sennichi-ji. The avenue in front became Sennichimae-dori.
Explore Hozenji Yokocho after the temple. This narrow alley has quaint shops and restaurants. It recalls Osaka of centuries ago. Try teppanyaki and local specialties. Modanyaki is a unique okonomiyaki. Find it at Yakizen.
Hozenji Yokocho once looked squalid. The iconic flagstones are only from 1982. Fires have struck twice here. One fire in 2002 was catastrophic. It destroyed 16 establishments.
Naka-za Theater stood north of Hozenji Yokocho. It opened in 1661. It was a kabuki theater. It adapted bunraku plays for kabuki. Fires often struck it. Air raids incinerated it in 1945.
Kanbi Fujiyama was a Shochiku star. He was a master of “dumb guy roles”. He created the Hozenji Yokocho sign. One stroke is missing from the kanji for “zen”. Some say it’s because he was “not such a good guy”.
Harudanji Katsura III also made a sign. He was a rakugo performer. He was one of the “four heavenly kings” of Kansai rakugo. His sign has every stroke in place.
Visit Ukiyo Roji. This narrow alley connects Hozenji Yokocho to Dotonbori. It displays photos of pre-war alleys and flattened Minami areas.
Meoto Zenzai is a venerable zenzai shop. It was founded in 1883. Sakunosuke Oda named his novella after it. Meoto means “husband and wife”. The shop serves two small bowls of zenzai. This gives the illusion of having more.
“Tsuki no Hozenji Yokocho” is a popular ballad. It tells of a young chef leaving his love. He departs for training. The song paints Hozenji Yokocho as a fine dining destination.
Early evening is the most picturesque time to visit Hozenji Temple. The lanterns cast a warm glow. The wet flagstones add to the atmosphere. Bring visitors here to show them Osaka’s contrasting faces.
Buy incense and a candle at the temple office. Light them. Then splash water on the statues. Splash the acolytes first. Then splash Fudo Myoo. Aim for the tops of their heads. The acolytes answer prayers for love and children. Aim for a statue’s body part to heal pain. Fudo Myoo fulfills all wishes.
Hozenji Temple is open 24 hours a day. It’s a never-sleeping location. Mizu-shobai workers often pray here. This is due to the “water” connection.