Gozan no Okuribi

Across the Kyoto skyline, a fiery spectacle ignites the night. This is Gozan no Okuribi, the culmination of Obon, a time when ancestral spirits return to visit their families. Gozan no Okuribi, often called Daimonji after its most famous bonfire, is a breathtaking display of light and fire guiding these spirits back to their realm. Five enormous bonfires illuminate the mountainsides. These aren’t just random flames. They are meticulously crafted characters and shapes of immense proportions. The first blaze ignites on Mount Nyoigatake. It’s the iconic “Dai” (大), meaning “large” or “great.” Its horizontal stroke measures a staggering 80 meters, while its curved lines reach 120 and 160 meters respectively. This Dai, the star of the Gozan no Okuribi, sets the night ablaze for thirty minutes. Following in a precisely timed sequence, other fiery figures emerge, one every five to ten minutes. “Myō” and “Hō” (妙法), meaning “wondrous dharma,” illuminate Mount Matsugasaki. A boat-shaped “Funagata” appears on Mount Funa. Another “Dai,” Hidari Daimonji, graces Mount Okita. Finally, a “Torii” gate, symbolizing a shrine entrance, sets Mount Mandara aglow. By 8:20 pm, the full panorama of Gozan no Okuribi is visible. The history of Gozan no Okuribi is shrouded in some mystery. One account links it to Kobo Daishi, the monk who created the Japanese alphabet. He supposedly lit a Dai while praying for an end to a plague. Another story tells of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa creating the Okuribi to mourn his prematurely deceased child. Kyoto residents participate in the Gozan no Okuribi by writing their names, ages, and ailments on Gomagi, wooden prayer strips. These are burned in the bonfires, carrying their hopes and wishes skyward. As the fires blaze, intriguing beliefs surface. Catching the reflection of the flames in a water glass supposedly protects against eye ailments, while a sake glass reflection wards off further illness. Drinking the charcoal from the Okuribi is even believed to cure stomach aches. The best views of this incredible spectacle can be found in central Kyoto. The banks of the Kamogawa River between Sanjo and Imadegawa streets are popular, especially for viewing the initial Dai. Other prime locations include Kitayama Street, Nishioji Street, Matsuo Bridge, and Hirosawa no Ike Pond. For a more exclusive experience, high-rise hotels and select restaurants offer panoramic views. Gozan no Okuribi is a captivating event. It’s a vibrant celebration of tradition, belief, and community that leaves a lasting impression.