Fahaisi

Hidden within the bustling city of Beijing, lies the serene Fahaisi, also known as the Fahai Temple. Have you ever wondered where the most exquisite frescoes in China are hidden? Many would point to Dunhuang or Yongle Gong. But after witnessing the breathtaking artistry within Fahaisi, their answers might change. Fahaisi rests on the southern slope of Cuiwei Hill, overlooking the village of Moshikou, just 20km west of Beijing’s heart. This Buddhist monastery, built between 1439 and 1443, owes its existence to Li Tong, a favored eunuch of Emperor Yingzong. Li Tong, with the support of mandarins, Tibetan monks, and artisans, raised funds to build this sanctuary. Emperor Yingzong himself christened it “Fa Hai Zen Si”. Fahaisi’s journey wasn’t without its trials. Just 69 years after its completion, the temple fell into disrepair. It underwent restorations in 1506 and 1682, only to face decline again during the first half of the 20th century due to years of war. In 1950, the renowned painter Xu Beihong, alarmed by the frescoes’ deteriorating condition, appealed to the government for their preservation. Thankfully, his plea was heard. A darker chapter unfolded during the Cultural Revolution. Red Guards stormed the temple, intent on destroying religious artifacts. Statues were shattered, but miraculously, the frescoes survived. A brave temple guardian diverted the Red Guards’ attention, while the dust-covered frescoes remained hidden in the shadows. Within Fahaisi’s main hall, the Mahavira Hall, ten magnificent Ming Dynasty frescoes, over 550 years old, adorn the walls. These masterpieces, painted by imperial court academicians and officials like Zhang Pin, Wang Yi, Gu Xing, and Li Yuan, depict a divine assembly listening to Buddha Sakyamuni’s sermon. The figures, their costumes, and expressions are rendered with breathtaking detail, capturing the serenity of Buddhas, the imposing presence of Devarajas, and the elegance of goddesses. To appreciate these frescoes in their full glory, the temple provides flashlights, as the hall is kept dark to preserve the delicate pigments. These pigments, of mineral and metallic origin, contribute to the frescoes’ remarkable longevity. Another factor is the unique plaster base, mixed with wool, clay, and sticky rice water, providing a remarkably stable surface. The frescoes depict not only grand assemblies but also intimate scenes. One notable fresco portrays Avalokitesvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, admiring the moon’s reflection in water. The detail is so fine that the embroidered flowers on her silk shawl are visible only under magnification. While the frescoes aren’t entirely unscathed, with some cracks appearing near the wooden columns due to differing expansion rates, there’s a curious observation. These cracks never directly cross the faces of the Buddhas. Perhaps a testament to their invulnerability? Restored in 1986, Fahaisi now stands as a national treasure. Its Ming Dynasty architecture harmonizes with the surrounding landscape, where ancient pine trees reach for the sky. Visiting Fahaisi is a journey through time. It’s a chance to witness not just art, but the resilience of beauty and faith, preserved against the odds.