Remember Ionia. Think about the Greek refugees. They were forced to leave their homes in Anatolia now Turkey. I’m talking about the area around Ikonio.
Today we stand near where Ikonio once stood. It’s a poignant reminder of a difficult past. The Greeks were displaced in 1922. It was part of a population exchange.
These refugees from Asia Minor needed new homes. Many were Pontic Greeks. They had lost everything. Their stories live on in street names here.
Look around you. Notice names like Trabzon Sinopis and Moschonision. Also see Psaron Ellispontou Inepoleos and Safraboleos. These are places the refugees came from. They are birthplaces along the Black Sea coast. They include Smyrna now Izmir and Ikonio itself.
In 1928 Nea Ionia had almost 14000 residents. Ninety-seven percent were refugees. Theirs is a story of loss. It is also a story of poverty and struggle. They faced heartache and nostalgia. But they showed resilience and adaptation.
Nea Ionia is best explored by walking. It is known for its shopping district. In the late 1970s it thrived. Even during the economic crisis it was a bustling trade center. Small family workshops sold clothes textiles and tapestries.
The Asia Minor Greeks were sharp tradesmen. This area became a textile center. It was one of the first in Greece. This happened after the German occupation. Nea Ionia was once the Manchester of Greece. It had a booming textile industry. They even exported rugs to the US and Europe.
Today Nea Ionia survives. It is one of the few Athens trade centers that made it. You can find everything on Irakliou Avenue. There is coffee nuts sleepwear and brand-name outlets.
The real secrets are around the corner. Wander into the narrow streets. Explore the pedestrian walkways. You will see a different side of Greece.
Look for small hutlike houses. They might have two doors. One side is modern. The other is falling apart. They stand in the shadow of tall apartments.
Notice the tiny porches. Small gardens overflow with flowers. They are barely big enough for two people and some cats. Traditional wooden doors have ornate glass windows. You can glimpse life inside.
Makeshift chairs and tables line the road. People enjoy coffee with friends. Old-fashioned tavernas serve Greek food. A radio plays Greek music softly.
There is a thriving market too. It sells fresh fish meats and vegetables. Shops offer Pontic Greek goods. You can find rare cheeses herbs spices and cured meats. Of course there is pastourma and phyllo dough called perek.
Nea Ionia and Ikonio represent a genuine Greece. It is timeless and timely. Nea Ionia continues to be a working-class area.
The communist KKE party has its headquarters here. It’s known as the House of the People. Nea Ionia can seem chaotic. There was no urban planning early on. The priority was to provide shelter.
Homes were granted to refugees in 1924. The area was first called Podarades. These homes were small. They were no larger than 60 square meters. Two families often shared them. Two-story homes housed four families. That’s why some houses have two doors.
Nea Ionia was divided into living and factory areas. Remnants of factories can still be seen. In the 1950s over 7000 people worked in 500 factories. That explains the three train stations.
Apartment buildings appeared in the 1970s. Owners exchanged their properties for modern apartments. Sadly Greek authorities failed to plan.
This area gave birth to great artists. Stelios Kazantzidis was born here. He sang about lost homelands and immigration. Nikos Xanthopoulos also was born here. He starred in films about the working class.
Today Nea Ionia has over 70000 residents. A Pakistani community has also settled here. You can find shops selling goods from home. There is also a sweet shop with Pakistani desserts.
Many live in the Petrina. These are stone houses built for refugees in the 1950s. Nea Ionia is a place of survival. It’s a place of strength. The people are welcoming to others in need. They set an example for all of us.