Ever wondered about a church built from the ruins of a temple? The Little Metropolis in Athens is just that. This unassuming Byzantine church on Mitropoleos Square holds a secret. It’s a captivating blend of ancient and medieval history.
Built atop the remains of a temple dedicated to the goddess Eileithyia the Little Metropolis boasts a unique construction. Unlike other Byzantine churches of its era it’s almost entirely made of reused materials. These spolia range from Classical Antiquity to the 12th or even 13th centuries. This makes it unlike any other Byzantine structure. Imagine the builders selecting stones from across Athens’ history. Each stone whispers tales of centuries past.
Scholars debate the exact construction date. Some suggest the 9th century under Empress Irene. Others propose the 13th century under Metropolitan Michael Choniates. However a key inscription found in the church’s spolia offers a clue. Historian Bente Kiilerich revealed that this inscription was once located in the Ancient Agora far from its present location. This suggests the church was built after 1436. A later theory connects its construction to the Ottoman era. Perhaps this was linked to the Turks’ takeover of the old cathedral.
Originally dedicated to Panagia Gorgoepikoos after a miraculous icon it gained the name Little Metropolis. This was because it stood within the residence of the Metropolitan of Athens. After the Greek War of Independence the church was abandoned. It served as a public library from 1841 to 1863. Then it was rededicated as a church first to Christ the Saviour then to Saint Eleutherios. Restoration in 1856 returned the building to its original state removing later additions like the bell tower.
Its Byzantine layout is typical. It features a cross-in-square design and a three-aisled nave with a higher central aisle. The octagonal dome was originally supported by four columns now replaced by piers. The Little Metropolis is small only 7.6 meters long and 12.2 meters wide. Its walls are entirely of reused marble spolia. Ninety sculptures adorn them above the window height. The interior was once full of frescoes only one survives today an image of the Panagia.
In recent history the Little Metropolis played a poignant role. On January 16 2023 it served as the location for the lying-in-state of Constantine II the last King of the Hellenes. Thousands came to mourn him. The church became a focal point of national grief.
So here we stand before this remarkable building. It’s a testament to Athens’ enduring history. A place where ancient gods and Byzantine saints coexist. A silent witness to centuries of change. This quiet corner whispers secrets of emperors kings and ordinary Athenians. It’s a place of worship and memory. A small church with a mighty story.